Richard Mille

Mark in Paris
[Purist]
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My thoughts about the original Richard Mille RM035 and the brand

Dear Purists,

The Richard Mille RM035 was unveiled in 2011 and produced during around 2 years and is named after its RM027 cousin. In many ways it is an exceptional Richard Mille, especially regarding its price range in the catalogue.







I'm a great fan and admirer of Richard Mille's technical marvels, not only because I think his case style is on the verge to become a modern classic (as well as ones of the nicest watches for women), that it is very well conceived but also because of the unusual technical features found in his movements, especially considering the materials used and the difficulty to master them compared to traditional material like gold or brass and steel.

We all have our own tastes and different ways we've come to like watches from.

Personally, I need both classical and modern, not at the same time but I need to go to one and then switch back to the other from time to time. I really need both.

Aside from the aesthetical field, I particularly believe in the genius of the construction design of the whole case and movement as well as in the material involved in its creation.







We can always suspect that Marketing techniques may be hiding behind choices brands make but the difficulty of coping with the materials Richard Mille watchmakers are working with, among the strongest metallic alloys used in very high-tech aeronautics vehicles or in any kind of racing (cars, sailing etc...) is not a smoke screen.

Of course we can always ask ourselves if it is necessary. But many discoveries would not have existed if some people didn't feel the need to go further.

Richard Mille decided to go further and in another direction, not only because it was different but because of its personal background, its curiosity and will to bring something else, more faithful to what he likes as from car racing etc... Nobody is obliged to follow him on that path, in the same way as people who remain conservative can't criticize this endeavour.







Frankly, if I could have imagine creating my own brand and project in the watchmaking field, I think I would have liked to do what he did from 2001. But certainly would not have done it as good as he did with his teams.

In the past, as many watch fans I think, I tried to choose each watch I could consider in my wish list from different brands as it brings diversity. But as time goes by, tastes evolve and I think I can also determine what I like and want. Richard Mille is the kind of brand I'd like to possess more than one piece from, even if for most people only knowing RM from his name, a RM tonneau-shape looks only very similar to another RM tonneau-shape. I think this is a wrong perception to have.

For the pleasure of dreaming, I've been looking at different references, more clearly starting to know what I find interesting (and also lacking) concerning each of RM's models. There are many specific elements I tend to like: the winding rotor (I love this feature and the way it is designed and looks in RM watches), the tonneau case's shape of course (a very important element of RM's success I think), even the round case's shape (like in the fantastic RM033 or the new RM063-01 "Dizzy Hands"), the Carbon-based materials and more generally all the exotic material, the fact it is shock-resistant and not fragile, the lightness and thus the comfort, the flawless finishing that should not be underestimated etc....







My favorite RMs were the first RM027 for a while with its beautiful Lital movement and Carbon nanotubes polymer case but also the RM021 Aerodyne with its honeycomb dial and turbine looking sub-dials. To me, Richard Mille technique and tough lightness were united in these two watches.

As an owner of the RM035, I was looking at what I could like from the RM catalogue in a more "affordable" budget (if we can say so) than the tourbillon models.

Well, I must say that I finally got back... to the original RM035.

Of course I love the RM011 or the RM030 but I wanted to keep the small size case (roughly there are 2 sizes in RM's catalogue). Even the last RM035 Americas is now bigger (with a caliber design I like less) whereas the original RM035 is 48x39.7x12.25 mm.

I also prefer something light (the RM011 is quite heavier) and something in Titanium or black (but no PVD or DLC) to remain as discreet as light. In that respect, the Magnesium-Aluminum alloy (90% Magnesium and 8.9% Aluminum) coated with the Miarox process (Ceramic coating) was something very interesting.

It wasn't so when it was launched but I finally came lately to like also the new RM027-01's look a lot with its thinner case, its fantastic cable-fastened movement, its lightness and shock-resistance.

However, in the end, the RM035 ticks all the right boxes (except the automatic winding feature). To compensate, the RM035 is equipped with a very practical sliding flange to avoid over-winding tensions and a fantastic winding feeling: it is light and smooth with a little metallic "click" noise.

The movement is a completely rebuilt movement from the gear train base of a Vaucher caliber. It is composed of a twin barrel display with a 65 hours power reserve.







Furthermore, the RM035 is the first RM watch (and only I think) to be Chronofiable certified (see further details at the end of the post) which means it has been subject to hard tests ensuring the wearer it is particularly shock-resistant and remains accurate.

I like the solid caseback as well which helps focusing on the skeletonized movement (and not the skin and hair) and which brings additional shock and torsion resistance.







I was talking about comfort earlier, a criterion I wasn't paying attention to until I tried an RM010, the first RM I could handle several years ago. The RM035 benefits from a less than 40 gr weight (including a 4.3 gr movement, its Carbon flange, Titanium baseplate and bridges, Ti deployant buckle and a polyurethane rubber strap) which implies also it is quite hard to come back to much heavier gold or even steel watches afterwards.


To conclude this "thoughts" thread about the RM035 and generally about Richard Mille products, this watch is really a very well calibrated concentration of Richard Mille DNA: the style design, the conception of the integrated movement and case, the shock-resistance, the accuracy and the ergonomic qualities which bring comfort (from shape as well as lightness).

It is flawless to me.


I hope you've enjoyed reading this and please feel free to share your experience about your current or previous RM and/or picture if you can!

Cheers, Mark


PS: my review of the RM035: www.watchprosite.com


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Chronofiable test :

The Chronofiable® test, developed at the beginning of the 80’s by the CCF SA (centre de contrôle de la fiabilité de l’horlogerie Suisse, taken over in 1985 by the Laboratoire Dubois SA), was devised to expose timepieces to an accelerated aging test simulating over 21 days, the equivalent of 6 months effective wear. This is achieved by the execution of a long series of tests such as the initial monitoring of the movement functions, an additional rate, the amplitude test taken at two temperature levels (0°C and 50°C), the monitoring of the power reserve and the winding velocity. Included in this artificial ageing cycle test are extensive linear and angular accelerations as well as some 20,000 shocks ranging from 250 to 5500 m/s2 (9.81 m/s2=1g).

The last step is a final monitoring phase applying the same elements than during the initial monitoring. Conditions like these attest unequivocally to the ability of the movement to withstand an array of extreme conditions without experiencing any effects on its performance.
 
Chronofiable® is a registered trademark belonging to the Laboratoire Dubois SA.
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PS: This watch is not mine anymore since I sold it.



This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2016-05-21 15:21:07

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