Review of the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 910P (Pre SIHH 2018)

Dec 18, 2017,14:37 PM
 

When Piaget introduced the Altiplano 900P 4 years ago, the brand achieved double benefits: not only it did reveal the thinnest handwind watch with a 3.65mm case height (note that at this level I avoid speaking of thickness!) but at the same time it defined a new aesthetic trend. All this was far from trivial. The comments focused much more on the technical capabilities leading to such a performance. However, it was also important to point out that Piaget was able to significantly rejuvenate the style of its favorite collection with the Altiplano 900P and give it a more contemporary approach. If the 900P movement was considered as the worthy successor of the 9P, these two calibres were clearly distinguished by their architectures. The 9P was a classic movement of the late 1950s and independent of the case in which it was housed. The 900P is a resolutely innovative movement that is a part of the case: the back part of the case is used as the base of the movement like a plate and this is the reason why Piaget communicates only on the thickness of the watch and not on the movement one... because it is not possible to distinguish them.




Three years after the presentation of the 9P, Piaget unveiled the 12P which was in turn the world's thinnest automatic movement. And it is interesting to note that almost the same time gap is found again today with the discovery at the end of the year of the Altiplano 910P (pompously qualified as "Ultimate") which is in the same line as the Altiplano 900P and which at the same time allows Piaget to become again the manufacture that produces the thinnest automatic watch, succeeding Bulgari on this field.

As an observer of the watch industry, I was delighted by this competition between the two Maisons for a very simple reason: the solutions used are not the same and that is what makes all the interest and charm of this trade sector. In any case, not surprisingly, the Altiplano 910P shares the same principle as the Altiplano 900P by merging the movement and the case.


All this looks simple on paper but moving from a manual winding movement to an automatic movement without a significant increase in the case height is far from being obvious. Because the result is there and it is impressive: the case height of the Altiplano 910P is 4.3mm and is hardly 0.65mm thicker than the Altiplano 900P while there is a winding mass and an automatic winding system to insert. And the overall performance is not left behind: the power reserve reaches 50 hours for a 3hz frequency what is quite acceptable in such a context.



The feat is impressive and is based on two pillars: a clever movement architecture and a strong performance in the machining of micro-mechanical parts. The architecture of the 910P movement therefore reuses the principles of the 900P and is built from a base represented by the back of the case. I obviously find the same family air with the regulating organ in the lower left part, the ratchet wheel, the crown wheel and the click on the right. But two big differences appear very quickly. First, the area on the top right that corresponds to the automatic winding system. And of course, the peripheral moving part which is the link between the bezel and the mechanism: the winding mass.


It is not the first time that Piaget uses a visible winding mass on the dial side since the manufacture had already done it with the Emperador Coussin Automatic Tourbillon. But this time, there isn't any micro-rotor: to achieve the objective of absolute thinness, the solution of the peripheral rotor was chosen. This 22 carat gold mass treated with a black PVD is obviously asymmetrical in order to improve the winding efficiency  what is a key point for this type of watch.

The logical consequence of such a movement architecture is that the diameter of the watch increases compared to the Altiplano 900P to reach 41mm. In fact, given its thinness, the Altiplano 910P offers a very slender design that even accentuates the delicacy of the piece. The diameter may be a bit too large for a dress watch but it is interesting to offer a size that differs clearly from the manual version with features a diameter of 38mm. And anyway, this Altiplano 910P remains smaller than the Altiplano Automatic 43mm ... which is downright too big!

The 4.3mm case height was not achieved only through this lay-out. Piaget conquered the hundredths of a millimeter that made the difference by optimizing the thickness of each part, including moving parts such as wheels and pinions. The Altiplano 910P is also the outcome of high quality machining.




Such a watch can provide a feeling of fragility. The danger is that in certain situations, the glass, due to a phenomenon of distorsion, touches the hands. Fortunately, there is a security. The dial has been set at a level below the right side bridge. By pressing on the glass, the bridge works as a shield and prevents it from touching the hands. This detail brings a new proof of the impeccable design and development of the Altiplano 910P.

The finishes of the watch are similar to those of the Altiplano 900P and bring relief and contrasts: I like a lot the satin brushed and sunrays effects of the bridges and the blackened rendering of the screws. But the most spectacular aspect is the shapes and openings of the bridges: they reveal the moving parts and contribute to the perceived quality. However, I regret that the two screws on the dial are not aligned.

Piaget hits hard with the Altiplano 910P. This watch, which will be available in pink gold and white gold will certainly be one of the stars of the upcoming SIHH. In any case, that is what I expect from the brands present at the Salon: technical audacity and aesthetic creativity. The Altiplano 910P combines these ingredients and I hope it will be welcomed as it deserves.



Pros:
+ a high level technical performance
+ a style that is timeless and contemporary at the same time
+ the quality of the finishes
+ the animation provided by visible moving parts

Cons:
- a diameter which is a little too big for a dress watch accentuated visually by the thinness of the watch
- a pretentious name: Ultimate, it's too much especially for a brand that embodies a sober refinement like Piaget
- I would have appreciated that the two screws on the dial were aligned


Fr.Xavier


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I was already deep in love with the 900P. Now, I have a true crisis of conscience with this new Piaget. I love it too. But, with a case diameter of 41mm, I’m really embarrassed.

 
 By: Alkiro1 : December 18th, 2017-14:51
I have to try it to have a definitive judgment about it and say yea or nay to this one. Thanks for the review FX. Best wishes Alkiro

The 900P is perfect, IMO.

 
 By: marcelo : December 18th, 2017-16:17
But this 910P.... 41 mm is kind of large for any dress watch, but when it is so thin and 'showy'... Will not look elegant on most wrists.

Thanks Fx

 
 By: Esharp : December 18th, 2017-17:23
What Piaget has done technically is to be applauded. But this line - manual and automatic both - leaves me cold. Dunno why - maybe it's the finishes, maybe it's just the overall design - but I find no romance, nothing to charm me. However I do think it wi... 

Mixed reaction

 
 By: MTF : December 18th, 2017-18:42
FrX, Thanks for the report. While I applaud Piaget for the technical achievement, the overall appeal is still "unsure". I have no problem with the 41mm case diameter as that actually accentuates the ultrathin dimension. The dial two main screwws are actua... 

now I can't un-see it...

 
 By: ocwatching : December 19th, 2017-11:47
great review FrX! but thanks to MTF...now I can't un see the 30 Jewels...nice achievement nonetheless...

I like the 900p just fine.

 
 By: kykw : December 18th, 2017-19:00
Thanks for the report, Fx. This automatic new release on pictures seem like an overkill. As others have already pointed out, the technical achievement is lost in the overall design. Ken

I don't know...

 
 By: foversta : December 21st, 2017-15:31
I find the aesthetic approach appealing. The point is the diameter/thickness ratio very high. A watch to be tested because it creates unusual feelings. Thanks. Fx

Is the outer ring with..........

 
 By: Thomas_3 : December 20th, 2017-09:08
901P on it a second hand so to speak? I notice it is in several different positions in the pictures.

Thank you

 
 By: Thomas_3 : December 23rd, 2017-11:00
Got it!! Thank you for the response, I learn something new on here everyday.

Thanks a lot! [nt]

 
 By: foversta : December 21st, 2017-15:28

Thanks for the review fx!

 
 By: traineract : December 23rd, 2017-08:59
Was very happy to see this from piaget