The trend continues. Richemont brands take advantage from events more often organized outside the SIHH to reveal their key watches of the year. The example is striking with Piaget which, through a launch that took place in New York in the month of July, presented a range of watches with a great strategic importance for the Manufacture. Because at the end, it is exactly what it means: the vocation of the Polo S range is to give a dynamic impetus to Piaget by expanding and rejuvenating its customer base.
The Polo S Chronograph Silver Dial:
The fundamental role of the Polo S is easy to understand: we just need to consider the means used by Piaget for its launch. There are 9 ambassadors, and no less, who will accompany the commercial rollout of the Polo S. These 9 ambassadors were chosen with care: they cover a very wide geographical spectrum and their spheres of influence are numerous and varied. But beyond the strategy of communication and the marketing plan, it is crucial that the watch is up to this ambition. And Piaget used every possible means to succeed.
Firstly, a good news occurred for Piaget. Because of the launch which was shifted in time and the rather limited new releases in the middle of July, all eyes were focused on the Polo S. And I must confess that rarely a range of watches has received so many criticisms by the watch blogosphere. But I consider this critical outburst as a very good sign. A watch that is successful is a watch that primarily creates a strong emotion, positive or negative. The polite indifference is the worst for a new watch. At least on this point, the mission is accomplished. I do not remember a Piaget watch which got so many comments.
The chronograph movement 1160P:
The basic criticism is the same for all: the design of the watch, either in its 3 hands or in its chronograph versions is too inspired, too "Genta-esque" and some even saw with the Polo S a kind of unlikely blend between the Nautilus and the Aquanaut. I personally think it is a bad trial. It is useless to deny it, of course there are aesthetic similarities and common style trends. But these similarities are inherent in what Piaget wanted to accomplish by making more casual and consensual the Polo line and have nothing to do, in my opinion, with a history of strong inspiration, if not plagiarism of what the competition offers. Moreover, with the different versions of the Polo S on the wrist, I have had the feeling of wearing a Piaget watch and not a "tribute" to a famous watch from another brand whose name starts with the same letter.
The Polo S silver dial:
The first Polo was launched in the late 70s and we frequently forget the extraordinary aesthetic richness of this collection. The horizontal lines across the dial and the bracelet are an integral part in my mind of the Polo style. Evolving constantly, the Polo has not embodied the sport chic style but has been more on the casual elegance territory what is not exactly the same approach. Despite the recent use of titanium and rubber elements for the cases and bracelets, the Polo has however always struggled to be perceived as a watch at ease in any situation.
This is the reason why the Polo S was unveiled. It has several missions: it must open new commercial opportunities for Piaget with a more attractive price, a case and a bracelet in steel (S stands for Steel). It must be also a true additional piece to the collections of the traditional clientele of Piaget being easy to wear including the weekends during sporting activities.
The Polo S Silver Dial Wrist:
The aesthetic shift is clear. The Polo S, whatever its version, can be seen as a neo-retro watch but not as an evolution of what the Polo collection has been for nearly four decades. It is rather a contemporary vision of what the Polo in 1979 might have been if the watch was designed as sportier than refined. The outcome is very surprising if we refer to the Polo of the past. To be frank, I see more inspiration from the Cushion shaped Emperador than from the past Polo watches. The style is certainly more consensual and more versatile than the more refined and complex design of some recent Polo pieces.
And I wonder if the real inspiration of the Polo S was not this Cushion shaped Emperador ? The resemblance is striking with this version which becomes more casual with the NATO strap:
In fact, it is easier to appreciate the Polo S at first glance and this smoother aspect matches the geographically broad ambition of Piaget. This watch has to please everywhere and the consensual design transcribes this ambition. The downside is that the watch has no longer the special character of the Polo collection that made them very special watches in the small watchmaking world. The Polo S toes the line at this level and it is a pity. This is the main point of complaint: neat but without asperity, the Polo S is perceived as a demonstration of an overall marketing ambition and not as a bold aesthetic project brought to completion without constraint. I regret but I have to be realistic. The world today converges toward a globalization of tastes and the Polo S is a perfect example of this trend.
The 1110P movement:
But if I stop the article at this stage, it would be a bit too simple and a not balanced perception of the Polo S. Because the watch also has some assets:
- Despite this 180 degree turn of the Polo style, the Polo S remains a genuine Piaget whose signature is recognizable in the bezel shape. I also find again the horizontal lines of the Polo collection in the ridges of the dial and when put on the wrist, the Polo S clearly defines its own atmosphere.
- 5 versions are available. 3 dial colors (blue, silver and gray) are proposed for the Polo S automatic 3 hands, 2 (blue and silver) for the Polo S Chronograph. These colors work well with the design of the watch and my favorite version is the automatic Polo S 3 hands gray dial. This color is in this context less conventional and brings a special touch to the watch.
- The quality of finishes is quite good especially at the case and bracelet level. It is consistent with the proposed prices.
- The in-house movements which power the Polo S range (the 111OP and 1160P) were specifically developed for this context. To be more precise, they are an evolution of existing movements (the 800P and 880P duo) and adapted to the context of the Polo S prices level. They have a 4hz frequency and a power reserve of fifty hours. Given their origins, I have confidence that they will work accurately and reliably. The decoration is very simple but flawless and neat. The winding mass rendering is a bit too sober for my taste and the chronograph movement is slightly enhanced by the visible column wheel. Please note that the chronograph loses its traditional second timezone display, what is a pity. Even the Gouverneur proposed it while having only two sub-dials. The Polo S features a hours totalizer instead.
- One of the strengths of Piaget is to control the thickness of the movements, the chronograph is barely thicker than the 3 hands watch (11.2mm vs 9.4mm). The case diameter being in both types of watch equal to 42mm, the Polo S has a relatively slender and lovely appearance. Once the bracelet is adjusted at the right size, the Polo S watches are very comfortable to wear. Thanks to a water resistance of 100 meters and the comfort on the wrist, the different versions of the Polo S meet the ambition to make them watches at ease in all circumstances. The perceived size is a bit smaller than the actual size considering the thickness of the bezel. This feeling is of course emphesized with the blue dials which decrease the perception of size.
- Finally, prices are in my point of view attractive given the usual pricing structure from Piaget. The automatic version 3 hand is offered at 10,900 euros while the chronograph is priced at 14,500 euros in France.
The Polo S Chronograph Blue Dial:
The Polo S is an exciting range of watches to be analyzed. It represents both an important strategic direction of the brand and a complete aesthetic change compared to the "classic" Polo collection.
The Polo was for me a special watch with a bold personality. The Polo S is a consensual watch which aims to promote the expansion of Piaget in markets where the brand is less present. I touch here the double paradox of this watch. By becoming quieter and by removing the typical traits of the Polo collection, Piaget loses a bit of its style, its daring and its magic. The brand has always proved to effectively marry originality and refinement. I don't find this unique touch here. The other paradox is that the ambassadors were chosen as being "game changers". However, the watch doesn't give the impression to revolutionize the watch design ... what Piaget did on numerous occasions previously!
The Polo S gray dial, my favorite version:
The most disappointing point for me is that the watch gives the feeling to be dictated solely by a marketing strategy and not by a sincere creative approach. So, despite its undeniable qualities, the Polo S has some difficulties to fully seduce me. Moreover, it is no coincidence that the version that I like most is the gray dial one. When Piaget thinks outside the box, it becomes even better. A lesson that the Manufacture should think about.
Thanks to the team of the Piaget boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris.
Pros:
+ A watch, whatever its version, which is comfortable and easy to wear in all circumstances
+ The seriousness and quality of the execution
+ The controlled thickness of the chronograph case
+ The prices level for a high-end manufacture like Piaget
Cons :
- The too consensual design that blurs the personality of a Piaget watch
- A watch that at the end evokes more the Cushion shaped Emperador than the Polo!
- The chronograph version loses the second timezone display usually proposed by Piaget (I imagine it will be back through a specific complication for the Polo S)
Fr.Xavier