Patek Philippe

Hi everyone,

Article updated with the last novelties

Best, Mark

Last Update October, 2017: Baselworld 2017 5131P World Time

Updated August 1, 2017: NYC Grand Exhibition references (5531, 5230G NYC)

Updated Sep 28, 2016: 5130P Edinburgh "Hamilton & Inches" 25 pieces limited edition.

Updated May 18, 2016: Baselworld 2016 novelties - 5230G and R and 5930G

Dear Patek fellows,

I think the World Time references from Patek Philippe are major timepieces in this type of complication and especially have a special place in the brand's history. I thought it was an interesting topic, looking back where it comes from and how it evolved to become the major reference it is now.

For those who didn't know it already, the World Time mechanism design used in the first Patek Philippe reference was born from the work of an independent watchmaker named Louis Cottier (1894-1966). He has closely been working with Patek Philippe at the time and helped bringing back to light this way of telling time which was forgotten since the very first examples were born during the 17th century, in table clocks.

 

You can see here below sketches made by Louis Cottier and showing the principle used to create these World Time watches. As you'll notice, the mechanism has evolved generation after generation and been improved to facilitate setting as well as reading time in the different time zones displayed.

 

Without further ado, here are the different World Time references Patek Philippe has made.

 

THE 515

The first Patek reference of the modern era was the 515 with its recognizable rectangular Art Deco 25 x 42 mm case produced in 1937 for a New-York client. The 28 cities dial is fixed (contrary to the dials on the next references) and based on the Greenwich time zone at noon. The single crown sets the time and also the 24 hours ring.

Source: Huber&Banberry

 

The world time module developed by Louis Cottier was added to the 12-120 caliber.

It was thought to be unique until lately, but it now seems there are 3 examples known today.

 

THE 96 HU

This was a unique 30.5mm watch crafted in 1939 showing 28 cities.

Edit: Thank you Dcc for this following update: " the 96 HU is not a unique watch as two distinct 96 HU's were sold in late 2011 by Christie’s and Sotheby’s respectively"

Source: Sothebys

 

THE 130

A unique 130 reference was made by Patek Philippe in 1939. It is a 33mm version with the addition of a chronograph and its 2 square pushers. The dial shows 24 cities but the watch doesn't work with a world time movement: only the dial, with Berlin as a base city at noon, shows different time zones.

Source: O. Patrizzi

 

 THE 542 HU

From 1938, around 30 cities are presented in a revolving bezel (manually turned to set the local city at noon) on this 28mm case reference which around 4 examples are known today. It also has these very recognizable thick lugs.

Source: unknown

 

This is the smallest WT version ever produced by Patek Philippe.

 

THE 605 HU

This was a 44mm pocket watch produced during the 1940/60's period, showing 42 cities.

They appeared with a black dial...

Source: Christies

 

...or cloisonné enamel dials (the first one is the only WT model I saw pictures of with a complete world map, made possible thanks to the bigger size of course)...

 ...in addition to the silver ones:

Source: Antiquorum

 

 

THE 1415 HU

Then came the 1415 reference (31mm), produced from 1939 or 1940 in a quite few pieces, especially in yellow gold, until at least 1950. The 28 cities are written on the large bezel which can turn to set the local time. The first enamel dials (continents) appeared with this reference.

Source: Antiquorum

 

It can also be recognized via its teardrop lugs.

One of the highest results at an auction for a wrist-watch was reached for a platinum case and silver dial version.

Source: Antiquorum

 

The caliber used for these 1415 and 2523 references was the hand-wound 12-400.

Here is an enamel cloisonné version:

 

A very few 1416 HU (30 cities) with their specific "claw" lugs were produced in a very few examples.

Source: Antiquorum

 

After this small production, a probably unique version 1415-1 in 35mm (33 cities) was produced in 1940 for the Doctor P. Schmidt with the addition of a chronograph function. The dial also presents a Pulsometer graduated for "15 pulsations" as well as a "5 breathings" scale. The watch is now visible at the Patek Philippe Museum and remains quite famous from many catalogue covers and from Patek Philippe's documentations.

Source: Salonqp.com

 

This specific reference was powered by a 13" Valjoux ebauche base, beautifully decorated.

 

 

THE 2523 HU

The 2523 reference came later in 35mm, with around 40 cities, when it was proposed for sale from 1953 to 1965. Enamel cloisonné dials were also available with this reference. This model now reveals the dial layout which was used later in the 5110 and 5130 references, except the world time setting was activated with a second crown in the 2523 (against only 1 and a manually turned bezel in the previous 1415): one crown for the standard time display; the other one for the time zone setting.

Source: Christies

 

Different versions were found with silver guilloché, translucent enamel or cloisonné enamel dials.

Here is a beautiful example of gold guilloché dial...

Source: Antiquorum

 

... another kind of guilloché in the center from these two pictures...

Source: Antiquorum

 

... or blue Enamel translucent center...

Source: Christies

 

... or Enamel dial with North America's map...

Source: Antiquorum

 

 

...and Europe...

 

More details on the 2523 following this link towards DCC's article: www.watchprosite.com=

 

 

THE 5110

The 5110 (24 time zones) which was produced between 2000 and 2005 housed the fine 240 caliber (in the 240/188 spec.) for the first time as a World Time reference. It required 4 years of development. It is also a switch from a manual to an automatic wound movement.

 

The main visible evolution when setting the local city is that it wasn't set by means of a second crown at 9 o'clock anymore but by a pusher at 10.

This new mechanism allows the owner to set the hour hand (jumping from one hour to the next one for each activation), without moving the minute hand and thus ensures a better accuracy when set.

 

Borrowing the 5127's case and its specific crown guards and round bezel, the 5110 has a delightful guilloché dial inspiration coming from the previous generations.

From several of our members, here are some pictures we had the pleasure to admire on our forum.

To start with, the white gold version...

Credit: Baron from PuristSPro

 

...here is the 5110P...

Credit: Mark In Paris from PuristSPro (thanks to the owner!)

 

... and the 5110R (my personal favorite)...

Credit: Mark In Paris from PuristSPro (thanks to the owner again!)

 

There have been a few limited editions for Taipeï, Doha, Münster or Singapore (on which the city's name appears in red).

 

 

THE 5130

 

The 5130 we have today was born in 2006 and the evolved version of the 240 caliber launched in the 5110 for the first time also powers the current 5130 and 5131 models.

The main differences are the case's size (from 37 to 39mm) though you won't notice any aesthetic changes on the case, bezel or lugs. It is just a more up-to-date size. The center guilloché has been replaced by a sunray decoration and applied hour markers.

Credit: Foversta

 

Here as well, there have been a few limited editions (Munich, Shanghaï...) as well as a bracelet version.

You'll see here below 2 versions of the Shanghaï edition (in red and white gold, 25 pieces each only)...

 

...as well as a picture of the Mecca version (Platinum, 150 pieces)...

 

... and a different guilloché pattern on the Munich edition...

 

...a Jerusalem version that seems to have been edited in 3 pieces only...

...or a Canadian version made for the 75th anniversary of Brinkhaus, the only AD in western Canada at 20 pieces in RG and 20 in WG only (thank you Vwong for the info)...

And the recent 5130P made for the 150th Anniversary of Hamilton and Inches from Edinburgh (25 pieces). Thank you Chronohead for sharing with us.



Credit: Chronohead

 And another piece for Hettitch (50 years celebration), a special 5130J with St-Helier (Jersey island) instead of London (Thank you Russell996 for the info):

Its video here: https://vimeo.com/173730533

THE 5131 ENAMEL REFERENCES

This generation of Patek Philippe World Time also announced the return of the enamel decoration on the central disk with the 5131 models. Each of the versions has been awarded a specific part of the world.

- J with the Atlantic region:

Credit: CH9698

 

- G with Europe/Asia continent:

 

- R (presented at the 2015 Basel fair) with the Pacific area:

Credit: Bruno.M1

As a 2017 novelty, we have finally another marvel of craftmanship, the Platinum version with a view of the North Pole, coming with a bracelet in the same material:

Don't forget of course the 30 (? I read many different numbers) pieces limited edition dedicated to the celebration of Patek Philippe's 175th Anniversary, in white gold and showing the Geneva Lake.

 

Or the 2012 unique Children Charity auction:

 

THE 5575G - 175th ANNIVERSARY

Last but not least, the World Time model with moonphase which makes it a very exclusive version compared to the previous generations: the 5575G.

Credit: Bruno.M1

 

The 5230

This is the latest generation of World Time only reference in the Patek Philippe collection, launched in 2016 in replacment of the 5130. More masculine, more contemporary with a fantastic new guilloché pattern and updated cities ring.

In red gold...

...and in white gold...





The 5930

Together with the new 5230, Patek Philippe has released this new World Time and Chronograph reference in 2016 as well. This is the first time we see that combination since the unique piece made for a doctor in 1940 (cf. reference 1415-1 at the beginning of the article). The 28-520 caliber has been modified to occupy less room (the dial is a bridge itself) and to fit the multiple moving rings and new chronograh counter.

It is available in white gold for now.

 

The New York Grand Exhibition collection

In July 2017, Patek Philippe has organized a wonderful 10 days event where were also unveiled different limited editions of WT watches.

Firstly, the 5230G (300 pieces) with a NYC skyline engravement:

(credit: Patrick_y)


And secondly, a new complication with a Minute Repeater and World Time piece, the 5531R and its wonderful 2 dials representing NYC's skyline during day time (5 pieces) and night time (5 pieces).

(credit: Patrick_y)

CONCLUSION

As you noticed, Patek Philippe's World Time pieces allowed being able to read the time in a glance, without additional action on the pushers or the crown. The day/night ring provides also the 24 hours thus allowing reading time from other places of the world in a clever and practical way.

Patek Philippe has mastered, as in many other complication aspects, this original World Time layout and has permit to bring many evolutions since the first "modern" models in the 1930's.

As it will be time to celebrate the New Year all over the world soon, I think it is quite a good subject to cross the time line with.

I'd love to see owners of any of these World Time references posting a little picture as I think this special model deserves it (and so do the people reading this forum!) and I would love to join you one day!

Have a great end of year, I wish you a Merry Christmas and a happy New Year everyone!

 

Cheers, Mark

 

More about the current World Time references on the official website: www.patek.com

PS: as many of these information have been gathered from the models visible during each auctions and because a few customized versions exist, there can be one or two possible mistakes as for number of cities for instance.

Please note also that some of the Number of pieces presented in this article can have evolved as we are aware of new models only each time a new one comes out of the shadow (at an auction etc...).

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