Patek Philippe

Dear Purists,

As you expected, here are the novelties that Patek Philippe has presented in the context of the "Art of Watches Grand Exhibition" held in New York this year from July 13 to 23 at Cipriani 42nd Street.

They created 9 limited editions for wristwatches (which I find some versions very appealing, especially concerning dial and case work) and other pieces within the Rare Handcrafts family. This is really a nice demonstration of the manufacture's craftmanship knowhow. The theme is focused on New York and the USA where you'll recognize many or the major iconic events, stories or landscapes. A few iconic elements of what makes the USA's identity.

The watches will be sold on the US market only. I imagine you can still try to contact US retailers if you live abroad, that's what I would do.

Please share your thoughts about the overall collection dedicated to this event and what's your favorite!

As far as I'm concerned, I think it is very balanced, at the standard price (lower than some London prices as there were re-editions of discontinued and classics model), with a good volume output (much less than fro the 175th anniversary for instance and not too little in order to satisfy a higher number of clients) and using very fine craftmanship in a good way as those dials are just gorgeous.

I must say the whole dial of the 5531 Minute Repeater together with a few pocket watches are my favorite (First Step on the Moon, Mount Rushmore and Manhattan especially...). It's like a second little Baselworld excitement for me

When we see some of the details (dial, lugs, case, bezel etc...), I must say I didn't expect the NYC collection to be that good. Another sign that while Patek is thinking about its future orientation, even if sometimes it is surprising and very different, it never lacks of talent. Bravo.

Best, Mark

PS: you can find more on Patek Philippe's website as well as a video, here: http://www.patek.com/en/communication/news/the-art-of-watches-grand-exhibition-new-york-2017

• World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531 New York 2017 Special Edition

The new 5531 reference (in 42x11.49mm) debuts at the exhibition in New York. It is the first Patek Philippe watch that unites the two complications that epitomize the manufacture: a Minute Repeater and the World Time function.

What is really impressive on this movement is the new innovation used (for which the brand has filed a pattent application): it rings local time, thus adapts the link between the Minute Repeater and Time parts whatever change the owner brings to the WT pusher. Hence, the hour hand is moving while the MR is still able to ring at any time for the new timezone. It adapts automatically to the city placed at 12. This is a first.

You'll notice that the case's caseband is hand-guilloched with Patek Philippe’s iconic hobnail pattern. I love it as it reminds me of the 1930's-1950's period and the lighters people used at the time. Moreover, you know that I love the 5975's lugs shape but I think I like these ones even more. Patek really has something very special when dealing with lugs, case and bezel's design. It is subjective of course but I think they are amazing.

The dial is adorned with a cloisonné enamel motif showing the Manhattan skyline, but what is also a very nice attention is that it exists with Day or Night lighting. A marvel as it is in my opinion the most beautiful enamel dial the brand has released recently.

It is made in 2 editions of 5 watches (MSRP of $561,341), provided with also a solid caseback.

The dial, during the day:

I love that case side (hobnail pattern they used on a few Calatravas but also more recently on the 6300G):

The colors and the way they are applied seems to be incredible:

And at night:

I like the carving between cities very much and also the one used to shape the date numbers (I hope it might be used again in the future):

That whole case decoration is marvellous:

As I said above, here are the lugs I like very much:

The beautiful R27 HU caliber (not that visible on this picture):

• Men’s World Time Ref. 5230 New York 2017 Special Edition

Patek Philippe’s World Time function is also honored in the 5230G made for the event. The elegant timepiece has a white-gold case (38.5x10.2mm) with a smooth, chamfered bezel and a dial with an opaline blue center.

The watche is matched with a shiny navy blue alligator leather strap, fiting the center of the dial. The sapphire-crystal case back showing the 240 caliber is engraved with the inscription “PATEK PHILIPPE NEW YORK 2017.”

It is made in a 300 pieces limited edition (MSRP of $47,000)

I think the overall choice color is great, blue matching perfectly with a white material.

• Ladies’ World Time Ref. 7130 New York 2017 Special Edition

Patek Philippe also provides a WT version for ladies in 36mm. The 7130 is available in two 75-timepiece editions, one in white gold, the other in rose gold. Next to the dial looking like a sky in the night, the bezel is decorated with 62 rare white Top Wesselton diamonds (~0.82 ct), complemented by 27 diamonds (~0.21 ct) on the prong buckle that secures the dark blue alligator leather strap. 

MSRP of $56,702

In white gold:

In rose gold:

• Men’s Calatrava Pilot wristwatch Ref. 5522 New York 2017 Special Edition

The case (42x8.78mm, 60m waterproof) of this novetly is in steel and comes in a limited 600-watch edition and features an exclusive dial reminiscent of vintage Patek Philippe aviator's watches. The color which seems very similar to the 5524G's recalls the livery of American fighter planes in the 1930s. The large applied Arabic numerals in white gold and the broad baton hands in blued steel receive a luminescent coating (like the 5524G). The brown calfskin strap with contrast stitching was inspired by the harnesses paired with classic flight suits.

The stainless steel clevis prong buckle resembles the belt buckles that pilots used to secure their survival kits.

The watch houses the 324 S caliber.

MSRP of $21,547

I really wasn't so sure about this watch from the first "face" picture that looked a little too "simple" to me, even though pilot watches are usually made to look that way (their original purpose wasn't to look good but to be usefull). However, from the picture below, I think that how the case, bezel and crown have been designed shows how beautiful it looks. I can feel a Calatrava elegance in that design that is rare for such watches. And I can imagine that the "real" experience may even be better.




I wasn't really a fan of the hands' design, just a question of subjective taste as it is very new to me, but I must say the overall work looks great here. It is a watch finally full of surprise as you can see on the few pictures posted below:

On the caliber's side, the limited edition name is engraved on the NYC collection:

The buckle (pin) is very appealing too:

Finally, a very nice novelty I didn't know I would have liked in the end. Does this mean Patek Philippe would introduce it in the standard collection? They didn't with the 175th anniversary collection (yet) but who knows, considering Patek is also opening a new line design to appeal to a younger and more modern client.

We'll see

• Ladies’ Calatrava Ref. 7200/50 New York 2017 Special Edition

The 7200/50 Calatrava is a ladies’ wristwatch that comes in two very feminine and pretty versions in 34.6mm. It features an ultra-thin white-gold Officer’s-style case with straight lugs and a mother-of-pearl dial with diamond hour markers.

It is available in two limited-edition versions of 75 watches each – one with a white mother-of-pearl dial and a shiny peacock blue alligator leather strap ((Ref. 7200/50-010)), the other with a blue mother-of-pearl dial and a shiny blue-gray alligator leather strap ((Ref. 7200/50-011)). It houses the ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240.

MSRP of $29,485

• Ladies’ Minute Repeater Ref. 7000/250 New York 2017 Special Edition

Patek Philippe is also presenting a ladies Minute Repeater (33.7x10mm) in a 3-watch limited edition. The Ref. 7000/250 stands out with a blue enamel dial with diamond hour markers. Its white-gold case features a “Flamme®” setting composed of 160 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds (~0.64 ct). This setting technique, proprietary to Patek Philippe, looks very nice imho and perfectly suits to a ladies watch.

The ultra-thin self-winding caliber R 27 PS sounds the hours, quarter hours, and minutes on two gongs. The navy blue alligator leather strap is secured by a white-gold prong buckle set with 26 diamonds (~0.18 ct). This very elegant and beautifully designed reference comes with a sapphire-crystal case back and an interchangeable solid white-gold back, both with the engraved “PATEK PHILIPPE NEW YORK 2017” inscription.

MSRP of $447,939

I find this bezel work stunning (better on high-res. pictures):

I love that view from the side, the case's shape looks very "smooth" and delicate:

Pocket Watches, Table Clocks and Rare Handcrafts wristwatches

To the wristwatch collection designed for the NYC Exhibition, Patek Philippe has also presented Pocket Watches and Table clocks. You maybe remember the blue/green "Mosaic" pocket watch that was unveiled last year (for Baselworld maybe). It was the first time I could see myself buying a pocket watch instead of a wristwatch. I must say that this year, there are a few models that, if I was offered one, I think I would get. As I said above, the Rushmore, Moon and amazing Manhattan dials are my favorite.

Patek Philippe's craftmanship mastery is again put at the front with a collection of 17 Rare Handcrafts pieces – dome table clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches – that salute the USA and New York. They are quite diversified in terms of techniques and show a wide array of what Patek can do. This is most impressive as it includes manual Engraving, Enameling artistry with many different techniques (miniature painting on enamel, cloisonné enamel, champlevé enamel, pailloné enamel, grisaille enamel with Limoges white, Limoges enamel painting) and the art of Guilloching which animates timepieces with elegant geometric engravings. The magic of precious stones and the jeweler’s art. And Wood marquetry.

As I said, an impressive demonstration of their knowhow and preservation of traditional techniques.

(I'll use some of Patek's descritptions as it is clearer than re-writing everything)

• Dome table clocks New York 2017

We can find here refined decorations in cloisonné enamel using transparent, opaque, and opalescent enamel paints. Patek Philippe follows this tradition on “The Gold-Seekers”, a one-off piece with a panning scene in which gold spangles represent the gold nuggets and silver spangles the reflections on the water. On the “Brooklyn Bridge by Night” table clock, it is New York at night with grisaille enamel and Limoges white. Gold powder as well as gold and silver spangles accentuate the finesse of this piece. The “Baseball” table clock reproduces the timeworn effect of old baseball cards with portraits of famous veteran players. Quite a nice attention considering what these cards represent in the US. Techniques are based on Limoges enamel painting and its transparency effects.

• Pocket watches New York 2017

Here are my favourite pieces from the Rare Handcrafts collection made for NYC's Exhibition.

The case backs of these one-of-a-kind watches pay tribute to the history, culture, and a number of the most beautiful landscapes of the USA.

Examples include the manual engraving of the “Pittsburgh” pocket watch according to an antique motif, miniature painting on enamel for the “Apsaalooke Sentinels” model, and wood marquetry for the “Bald Eagle” watch. Some of the pocket watches feature combinations of these rare skills in perfect harmony. To name but a few: “Mount Rushmore” (miniature painting on enamel and hand engraving), “Portrait of an Indian” (hand engraving and wood marquetry), “Wild Horses” (cloisonné enamel and hand engraving), “Yosemite Valley” (miniature painting on enamel and hand engraving), “Napa Valley” (miniature painting on enamel, hand engraving and guilloching) or “First Steps on the Moon” (wood marquetry and miniature painting on enamel). The “Manhattan-Brooklyn” model, a unique piece, salutes New York with a case back ad a dial in cloisonné enamel paired with miniature painting on enamel. Both sides depict the same cityscape, once by day and once by night.

Each of these watches comes with an exclusive hand-crafted and richly decorated stand.

They are "Unique piece", in 44.1mm.

I love them

One of my favorites, the result must be amazing in real:



About the following one, I was thinking "is it a choice for such a brand and a pocket watch?" but I think that the result pushes me to say definitely "yes". Our appreciation of pocket watches (very traditional) is something that a modern decoration can change. Not as practical as a wristwatch but I could definitely wear a few of these.

• Wristwatches New York 2017

Patek Philippe is also introducing several Calatrava wristwatches in limited editions. Wood marquetry characterizes the “Grand Canyon” and “Rodeo” watches while the “Jazz” model showcases miniature painting on enamel and refined gold spangle accents. Patek is finally presenting the “Sheridan Style” wristwatch, an hommage to traditional leathercraft (carving and stamping technique) with a fully engraved dial beneath golden brown transparent enamel.

They are made in 10-piece editions each, in 38.6mm.

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