Patek Philippe

I/ The autopsy of the 5070:

I will focus here on the white gold version, and will reserve my thoughts on the other versions at the end of this post.



Since its release in 1998, the 5070 was " felt " as a big watch, with its 42 mm diameter case.

It is funny to think about it, nowadays, as the " Horological Landscape " changed so much!

Despite the fact that it is one of the biggest Chrono among this prestigious category, the first word which comes to my mind is " Coherence ", when you have a look at the case, dial, case back and movement.

Let's detail each of these parts.

A/ The movement.

If I start with the movement, for once, it is because I think that it is one of the most important challenge on this watch, a challenge PP brilliantly won.

You know it all, the movement is built on a " Nouvelle Lemania " ebauche, reworked " in depth " by Patek.





The finish is conform to the Manufacture Reputation for a watch of this segment, with some pleasant handmade anglages, Cotes De Genève, and, as often with a Chronograph of this category, a kind of sculptural overall outcome, as shown on the picture above.

The " show " is also chromatic, with an interesting blend of darkened, shiny silver and golden parts.

Here, a view on the stylized central bridge:





And here, another intriguing detail, the polished " hat ", on the top of the column wheel ( at the bottom / right part of the photo ) :



Why this " hat " on the column wheel?

Is it an aesthetical purpose, or does it have some horological virtues?

While looking for some information on that matter, Jerome wrote on an article about the new PP Chronograph movement ( which also shares this particularity I never saw on elsewhere, AFAIK ) that it was for aesthetical purpose.

Here, no split seconds, nor Flyback, as this movement offers a simple chronographic function.

Do we need more?

If yes, there are some excellent alternatives, among PP watches, as the 5959, or the new Ratrappante, the 5950 A. If not, this 5070 is good enough!



This is a low beat caliber ( 18 000 vibrations per hour ) with a good power reserve ( 60 hours ), and superbly accurate, as I monitored it during one month, and it only gained 2 seconds per day...

This is not only a matter of finish, as PP reworked this Caliber.

Here is a quote from the official press files:

" The teeth of the going-train wheels have been re-profiled for smoother transmission of energy in the movement and constant mechanical precision, with new ratios from the centre wheel to the barrel contributing to the reliability and accuracy of the movement.

The movement retains the large Gyromax balance wheel with a high moment of inertia that guarantees its timing stability."

What you don't necessarily have in mind are the dimensions of the Cal CH 27 - 70: 27,5 mm big, for 5,57 mm high.

With such a diameter, we could think that the movement would be " sunk " into the 42 mm diameter case , and that is why I mentioned the " Patek Challenge ".

Remember that the new PP Chronograph movement, the Cal CH 29-535 PS is bigger with a diameter of almost 30 mm housed in a 39 mm case, which represents a difference of only 9 mm, instead of ...14, 5 mm for the 5070 case and movement!

PP won the challenge, as we'll see now.

B/ The Case Back:





Patek managed to integrate the small movement into the 5070 big case perfectly.

The trick?

Patek opted for a bevelled (bisauté, in French, as I'm not totally sure of the translation) multi level screw in case back, larger at the base, narrower at the top.

So, the visual impression is that the movement doesn't look so small, fills the case back in a coherent way, rather than being " sunk ".

That's pretty well done, as the real size of the movement is only noticeable if you compare it to other Chronos, which we'll see later.





C/ The dial:

Another consequence of this rather small movement can be seen on the layout of the dial, and especially on the location of the 2 counters, which are very centred, one of the major characteristic of the 5070.

Due to the size of the movement, it seems that it was impossible to not " centre " the 2 counters.





But is this problematic?

In my opinion, this specificity is part of the charm, on this watch.

Here, Patek used another trick to decrease the visual impact of the centred counters, with a tachymetric scale, just after the seconds indexes.

This way, the dial is perfectly filled and well balanced.

The only thing is that the counters " eat " the applied " 2 ", " 4 ", " 8 ", " 10 " applied numbers, which I find to be, personally, the only flaw of this superb dial ( note that the " 6 and the " 12 " are a bit smaller than the other numbers ) :





... To be compared to the latest 5170:

The applied numbers are not eaten, but the pulsometric scale is, and the smaller counters are not centred anymore...



Anyway, the 5070 in white gold is the only one to have darkened applied numbers, certainly to enhance the legibility on a white gold case matching with a silver dial.



The leaf hour and minute hands are sublime, and highlight the elegance of this dial:



D/ The case:

Every detail of a watch can be great, that doesn't necessarily makes a great watch.

The first feeling which comes to my mind is that the 5070 is a coherent and very elegant watch, despite its size ( 42 mm ).

It is a question of volumes, I think.

The ratio size / Thickness is excellent, here, as the case is 11, 6 mm high.

Therefore some details enhance this impression, such as the rectangular pushers, the well-proportioned crown, the multi level bezel, and the thin lugs.





A close up of the multi level bezel:



You will also notice that even the shape of the lugs make echo to the multi level bezel.

The obsession of the details...

The crown, bearing the Calatrava Cross, and the two rectangular pushers ( who could imagine round pushers on such a case? )



Now, the watch in all its beauty:







The alchemy is here, the small movement has been ingenuously used by Patek, letting show some hints, such as the 2 centred counters, and the watch is very well thought and conceived.

Look at it under different angles, you always have this feeling of coherence, elegance and balance.









The question which remains is to know if it would have been greater if the 5070 was 2 mm less big, ala 5970, which doesn't have these 2 centred counters.

Honestly, I think that it is not a big deal ,and more, once again, the 5070 has its own personality, its small flaws contributing to its charm.

The wrist test is the most important experience, to fully get the interest and strength of this Chronograph.

It is difficult to put in words, but the presence of the 5070 on the wrist is amazing, much more than into its double seal plastic package!









Casual or dressy, it doesn't matter, the 5070 is a polyvalent Chronograph.

Please note that I put the 5070P strap on my watch, as I am really attracted by the Blue / Silver Combo, the normal strap being black.

Cherry on the cake, the buckle, a simple folding one, nicely designed with this Calatrava Cross, which is, in my opinion, much nicer than the new buckles designed ala Tag Heuer.



II/ The 5070 facing its competitors:

As previously said, I will compare the 5070 to what I think to be its competitors, the Lange Datograph, the JLC Duomètre,and the Vacheron " Les Historiques " Chrono ( we will also quickly mention the VC Malte Chrono, as it was also released at the same time than the 5070 ).

May we really consider all of them as 5070 " competitors "?

Yes ...And no.

Yes, because they all belong to the category of " prestigious " chronographs.

No, because they don't all share the same degree of complications.

Let's see that...

A/ 5070 versus Datograph:

Born almost at the same moment- 1998 for the 5070, 1999 for the Datograph - these 2 superb chronographs share common goal, the release of an elegant chronograph, but in a different way.

Aesthetically speaking, first, as the 5070 and the Datograph are certainly and strongly linked to their respective brands.





The size is not the same, the perception differs.

Smaller than the 5070 (3 mm less), the Datograph offers a stronger, but not more elegant look, in my opinion.

The balance is present, on the Datograph, but not in the same way than on the 5070, with the Grande Date which composes a triangle with the 2 sub-dials located between 7 and 9 o' clock.

Therefore, the Datograph dial offers a contrast with the 2 silver counters, which receive 2 small heated blue hands.

The difference in size makes the Datograph look chunkier than the 5070, a feeling that is also enhanced by the larger and more curved bezel of the Lange Chronograph.



On the Datograph, the case is polished on the top and in the bottom parts, while the center is brushed.

On the 5070, all the parts are polished.

The pushers are more refined, maybe, on the Datograph, rectangular, but curved on the top.

So, as always, it is a matter of taste:

Some will prefer the simpler look of the 5070, others will be fans of the more sophisticated Datograph, and everybody will be right, here.

Personally, I would dare a point of view:

As for the dial: 1 to 1 between the 2 watches.

As for the volume of the case and bezel: + 1 to the 5070.

As for the shape of the pushers (and their feeling, too, when you use them) and the finish of the case: + 1 to the Datograph.

As for the presence on the wrist, it all depends on the size of your wrist, and it is really subjective, but I would rate the 5070 above the Datograph, for its perfect volumes (IMO).

Mechanically, I'd say that the Datograph is "uber" the 5070.

Not that much because of the Grande Date, even if the Lange is a nice one - not everybody would systematically care about the presence of a Date in a Chronograph - but mainly because of the movement:



Even if Patek did a great job on the nicely finished Lemania movement, they used an outsourced movement for the 5070 ( which is not the case anymore with the 5170 ), while, at the same time, Lange created a dedicated caliber for the Datograph, which is, to me, from an horological point of view, more interesting.

An in-house movement doesn't make it all... To be interesting, it has to be nicely made and finished, which is the case for the Datograph, as you can see on the picture posted above.

The level of finish is impressive on the Lange. Busy, maybe, but impressive.

Therefore, and to end with this comparison, I'd also add that the Datograph movement provides a more sophisticated series of complications, with the Grande Date and the Flyback, when the 5070 is a " simple Chronograph.

Personally, and for all these reasons, I would rate the German movement over the Swiss one, so...1 point for the Datograph.

At the end, the final score is tough:

Aesthetically, the 5070 wins, but the Datograph is very close, while this last one wins the game if we are on the horological ground.

B/ 5070 versus Duometre:

The Duometre came 9 years after the birth of the 5070.

Both are 42 mm big, and are the expression of a luxury classic Chronograph, but these are the only common points between these 2 watches.

With the 5070, no surprise.

The design of the whole watch, and especially of the dial is classic, conventional yet very elegant.

Elegant and classic, the Duometre is, indisputably, but the design is more original, as JLC managed to enhance the Chronograph function on the Duometre, to give it an equal importance, compared to the basic time, by a clear separation of the Time and the Chronograph.





On the JLC, the Chronograph is not just added, like on the Patek 5070, it is perfectly integrated to the watch, as if the watch was a pretext to release a nice Chronograph.

The finish of the dials, on these 2 watches, makes another interesting difference, with a Grained treatment on the Duometre, while the 5070 is smooth.

The bezel is more conventional on the Duometre, which also receives a brushed / polished case, like on the Datograph.



Mono or bi pushers?

Thin (11, 6 mm) or thicker (13, 5 mm)?

I would give the following score:

Bezel: + 1 to the 5070.

Height of the case: + 1 to the 5070.

Dial: + 1 to the Duometre.

Finish of the case, and of the dial: 2- 0 for the Duometre.

Aesthetically, even if these 2 watches share the same spirit, they express it in a different way, and they will each have their own fans.

I'd say that the Duometre is more refined, while the 5070 looks more coherent, with its 2 mm thinner case.

So, personally, I would rate on the aesthetical point the Duometre a bit, slightly a bit, above the 5070.

Now, if we compare the movements of these 2 lovely monsters. The Duometre clearly wins.





First, and mainly because in the 5070, the movement has been adapted for the watch, while on the Duometre, it has been specially created for this Chronograph.

The Cal 380 totally fills the case when, with the Cal CH 27-70, Patek had to use some tricks to brilliantly integrate it in the case back.

Then, in terms of conception, the Dual Wing concept of the Cal 380 (Two independent barrels, one for the Chronograph, the other for the Time is innovative, while the CH 27-70 remains traditional, not to say ...conservative.

The JLC Chronograph is a Foudroyante, while the 5070 is a simple one.

So, here, the differences are so important that the Duometre can't really be compared as a competitor of the 5070.

I'd rate the Duometre much above the 5070:

The finish seems to be a bit better on the Duometre, the conception and the " sophistication " of the JLC beats the Patek.

JLC: 3 - Patek: 0.

C/ 5070 / The VC "Les Historiques" or Malte Chronographs:

I will do a direct comparison between the " Les Historiques " Chrono and the 5070, as I own them both, and will mention the Chrono Malte.

The " Les Historiques " Chrono is really interesting to directly compare to the 5070, as the difference in size is significative (37mm / 42 mm), and is the consequence of the use of the same Lemania Chrono movement in each of these watches.

It is important to keep bin mind that Vacheron released its chrono circa 1994, 4 years before Patek, and that those 2 Chronos " lived " together during 5 years, before Vacheron changed it for the Malte Chronograph.





The " Les Historiques " has, in my opinion, a more elegant and dressier dial, almost sophisticated with this guillochage.

It is also more balanced, as the counters are less centred, without " eating " the minute indexes nor the applied numbers, and better proportioned, too, in my opinion.

Here, no need to use a trick to reach this goal.

Though, the leaf hands of the 5070 are more refined than the baton hands of the "Les Historiques".

So, 1 point for the VC dial, 1 for the PP hands.

As for the case now, it is difficult to make a decision.



The " Les Historiques " chronograph looks like a precious jewel, with the superb teardrop lugs, while the lugs of the 5070 are more conventional, still elegant.

1 - 0 for Vacheron

The Vacheron has a more homogeneous case, with a less important diameter, in regard of the movement size, but it is, visually, thicker, while the proportions of the 5070 case looks more harmonious, as shown on this profile picture.

The Maltese crown against the Calatrava crown...



1 - 0 for Patek.

As for the case back, the " Les Historiques " wins, as the movement is better integrated than in the 5070.

1 - 0 for Vacheron.

All this is of course very subjective, and each of us could indeed give another score to these beauties according to his own sensibility or preferences...

Now, if we speak about the Malte Chronograph, which had the same life than the 5070, as it was born in 2004 to be discontinued in 2009, things are even more difficult to find a winner, as both of them are identical in size.

Malte lugs, round pushers, that is a matter of taste, some will prefer, others won't.

The counters on the Malte Chrono are also centred, but smaller, and as on the "Les Historiques", they don't "eat " the indexes nor the applied numbers. (Pictures Courtesy Vacheron).



At the contrary of " Les Historiques " Chrono, it is visible on the Malte that the movement is small, due to the huge difference between the diameter of the case back, and the size of the caliber:



As for the movement in the Patek and in the Vacheron, it is, in both cases, a Lemania, finished by the 2 brands, and offering the same level of complication: No Date, No Foudroyante, nor Flyback, just a simple, but very nice chronograph.

As said, better integrated in the Vacheron " Les Historiques ", but more in depth reworked and revisited by Patek.





Indeed, it is very difficult to find a winner between these 2 true competitors.

- CONCLUSION -

There is a certain difference between the reputation, or should I say the " standing " on the 5070 and its horological qualities.

Presented as the marvel of the marvels, killing its competitors - but we saw that, in fact, only the VC Chronographs could be qualified as true competitors - the 5070 has indeed a lot of charm, and we could even think that its flaws are its qualities, added to the fact that Patek did an awesome job, here, to use such a small caliber without ruining the coherence, the allure of which is a big watch.

This is the magic of this Chronograph, when Reason is beaten by Passion, a kind of irrational love (sorry for the redundancy).

This has nothing to see with scarcity (it is not really scarce) nor value (the true value is in the eye of the lover, not on the eye of the flipper), this has to see with the feeling, difficult to put in words, when you try it on your wrist, when you can physically touch it, play with it.

There are nicer competitors, there is more interesting to see, horologically, but the 5070 is the 5070, a lovely, elegant, and very appealing watch.

Which 5070 to choose?

For once, I would say that the metal and the color of the metal are not a big deal.

I was very impressed by the platinum, with its awesome blue dial, and by the yellow gold, with a superb black dial, which is a pretty strange feeling for me as I am not at all a colored gold guy.

Though, the White Gold is my favourite, for its classic and very elegant look, but once again, this is only my taste, and some would perfectly prefer the warmer rose gold version.

I will end with a caution word or disclaimer: This review is my personal approach of this watch, MY Truth, and only My truth.

I don't have the pretention to think or to believe that this is anything else than a personal opinion on this Chronograph.

Hope that you will have pleasure reading it, nonetheless, and that it will be an opportunity to have an interesting discussion about Watches.

Best,

Nicolas

PS: I would like to thank here POY for his help on some Photoshop work (The 4 5070), and Jerome for the information he gave me about the 2512.