amanico[JLC Moderator]
341382
Some Jaeger Lecoultre enameled watches and thoughts.
Jul 16, 2017,00:21 AM
We are several, in our virtual home, to be fans of enamel dials.
I asked to the Manufacture to prepare a selection of watches I wanted to see, and to take in pictures, which we managed to do, but with Jaeger Lecoultre, there is always some place for unexpected things. Just for the pleasure of the eyes, or are they the best tempters?
I wondered since how long Jaeger Lecoultre used enamel for their watches. Naturally, they had some enamelled pocket watches, but think about it when it comes to wrist watches... Do you know some vintage wrist watches with enamel dials?
I have no examples which come to my mind, as I am typing these words.
I would not say that there was no enamel dial at JLC in the 80's or 90's, as I don't know this era very well. But I would bet on the fact that this is a relatively recent phenomenon, let's say from the last 10 years?
I will not give you an exhaustive view on JLC enamel dials, there is way too much to say and to show. I invite you to discover or to rediscover some watches which were unveiled these last years.
There is one thing which is obvious. Generally, Jaeger Lecoultre associates enamel to a complication, a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, a tourbillon, or to a decoration such as a skeleton. Generally, not always, as we have some good and nice examples in mind, such as the Grande Reverso
Enamel or the Reverso Blue Enamel, which both are time only.
Extra bonus, the Eclipses, here the Kazimir Malevich:
And now, the enamels I could see at the Manufacture, from the Heritage Gallery Collection.
- The Master Ultra Thin 1907 Enamel, in white gold: 39 mm and 5 mm of pure pleasure. Nothing more than a superbly shaped case, a great movement and a bewitching dial. The hands are very much my taste, as well.
- The Master Minute Repeater platinum, enamel grand feu dial. Introduced in 2010 in a limited edition of 50 pieces, this watch would have pleased me... If there were not these openings at 4 and 8 o' clock. Ok, they are there to show the hammers playing the time, at 4 o clock, and those at 8 give some symmetry to the dial, but... Still... Without, with a plain dial, it would have been my favorite Master Minute Repeater.
- Another Master Minute Repeater, the one inspired from Antoine Watteau's painting, " Nudes ". Here again, an opening at 4 o clock, which is not very à propos.
- Master Grande Tradition Minute Repeater, " Starry night on the Rhone ", by Van Gogh.
The proportions are very nice: 39 mm case, 12, 2 mm high, and at the contrary of the 2 Master Minute Repeater posted above, here, we have no holes in the dial. Ok, you won't see the hammers playing their partition, as they are hidden behind the dial, but you will listen to it, and it sounds pretty nicely!
The con? The movement, as, in my opinion, a watch of this value should have a manual winding movement, much nicer than this automatic caliber.
It is a limited edition of 18 pieces.
- Duometre à Quantième Lunaire, white gold 40, 5 mm case, enamel dial.
I kept the best for the end. My favorite piece from all I posted here, in this thread. Because it is a Duometre, which is for me the most interesting product family, at JLC and probably all brands included, because it is a chronometer which doesn't tell its name ( stop seconds for the diablotine and the central seconds and rest to zero for both seconds hands, plus the fact that one of the two barrels and its gear train feeds the balance wheel ). And because of its superb enamel dial. So milky, so silky so tempting!
Limited Edition of 200 pieces.
Once again, this is only a part of the vast collection of JLC enamel dials.
It has to be said that JLC make their own enamel dials, and they have a master enameler for that.
My personal taste? The simpler, the better. Plain, one color, white or black or blue. Even if I admire the skill of the artists at the Manufacture.
What about you?
Best,
Nicolas