Jaeger-LeCoultre

Before unveiling the 5 new Polaris from the 2018 collection, let me first summarize the journey of this iconic watch from Jaeger Lecoultre, as it will help us to better understand these new offers. 

Polaris and Jaeger Lecoultre. This is a long and old love story, which started in 1963 with a production of 50 prototypes, giving birth to the Polaris as a definitive watch in 1965, revisited three years after, in 1968, then, with a most famous dial, featuring long and slim triangular luminous indices. 

The Polaris 1965 and 1968 were signed Lecoultre ( for the US Market ) or Jaeger Lecoultre. 

The Polaris 1965, on the left, and the Polaris 1968, on the right:

But that is not all... 

2 years after, in 1970, Jaeger Lecoultre released the E 870, a totally new and different Polaris: New dials, in grey, blue and red, new case, oval shaped, and new movement, Cal 916, with a rotor, beating at 28, 800 vibrations per hour, instead of the bumper of the Cal 825, with its 18, 000 alternances per hour. And... One crown disappeared, with the E 870, due to the fact that the bezel is external, plus a sapphire glass, instead of the good old plexy.

The Polaris II E 870:

 

So, all in all, the Polaris, from the Prototype to the E 870, had a 12 years life. And the production was pretty low, compared to the competitors of that time. 

Indeed, the E 859 was made in 1714 pieces, 500 Polaris 1965 / 1214 Polaris 1968, excluding the 50 prototypes from 1963, and the E 870 was produced in 1120 watches, three colors included. 

The Polaris disappeared from the catalog in the mid Seventies but not in the heart of the brand. 

Indeed, as you well know, the Polaris came back with two Tributes, the Tribute to Polaris 1965 in steel ( 65 pieces for the Paris Boutique ) and in platinum ( 165 pieces, worldwide ) and the Tribute to Polaris 1968 in November 2008. Domed plexy, 42 mm case, both being faithful to the originals. 

Tribute To Polaris 1968 on the left, To Polaris 1965 on the right:

But we can also say that the design of the Polaris influenced Jaeger Lecoultre with some other pieces, such as:

The Master Compressor Memovox, in 2002. Here, the platinum version, limited to 250 pieces:

The Amvox One from 2005, on the right, and the Amvox Two from 2006, somehow, on the left: 

The Master Compressor Diving GMT, in 2006, too: 

And... The Master Compressor Navy SEALs Alarm, in 2009: 

We can even consider the Master Compressor Memovox and the Amvox One as modern interpretations of the Polaris. 

Ten years after the Tributes, Jaeger Lecoultre revisits the Polaris. The Manufacture widens the concept, as now, the Polaris is not only a watch. It becomes a family of 5 members, which have two common points: The finishings of the dial and the case. 

The dials are all finished in the same way. A sunray decoration for the center part of the dial, grained for the outer part. 

The inner bezel is opaline. 

Here, the Polaris Automatic, freshly unveiled:

A combination of finishings we already noticed on the Master Memovox Boutique Edition Blue from 2016, though: 

The cases are all new, with three different sizes: 41, 42 and 44 mm. They are made of steel, one version is available in rose gold, and another version is made in titanium, only. The treatment of these cases are the same: Brushed on the top, polished on the sides, with some sensual bevels. 

Let's see the 5 members in the details, now. 

1/ The Polaris Automatic. 

For the first time of its history, the Polaris comes without alarm nor date. 

Its name? Polaris Automatic. 

 

The case is 41 mm big, in steel, water resistant to 100 meters, and it houses the well known Cal 898-1, which is an automatic movement, beating at 28, 800 alternances per hour and offering a power reserve of 40 hours. 

The Cal 898-1:

You have the choice between two dials: the traditional black, and a blue one. 

This is the first time you have a 3 / 6 / 9 / 12 dial configuration, due to the lack of the date. 

Both dials, as all 2018 Polaris dials, are filled with Superluminova:

As there is no alarm, the upper crown will be used to set the internal bezel. While the crown at 4 o' clock will set the time and ind the movement. 

You also have the choice between straps ( alligator and calf ) and... An all new bracelet, which is three links construction, polished and brushed. 

2/ The Polaris Chronograph. 

The Polaris Chronograph is available in two metals, steel or rose gold, with a 42 mm case in both versions. 

The presence of the tachymeter is a link with the automotive universe. We take some liberty and distance with a pure diving watch, here. But due to the fact that it is water resistant to 100 meters, you will be able to have some water activities, with it strapped on your wrist. 

With the steel version, you have the choice between the black or the blue dial, which have a two subdials configuration, for the chronograph hours and minutes. You will also be able to choose between a calf strap and the bracelet. 

A detail on the black and blue dials finishings: 

Like the other Polaris from this year, you find the sunburst, grained finishings, plus the opaline bezel which is the tachymeter, here.

And the lume shot: 

The rose gold version has an anthracite dial and is only available on a strap, made in alligator. 

The movement is well known from Jaeger Lecoultre fans, as it is the automatic Cal 751, beating at 28, 800 alternances per hour, with a power rerserve of 65 hours.

 

You will see it through the case back: 

3/ The Polaris Chronograph World Time. 

This is the only Polaris among the five I am introducing to you to have a titanium case, and this is the bigger one, with a 44 mm diameter. And I've been told that this watch is a bit below 13 mm in terms of thickness. 

You will immediately notice the additional crown at 10 o' clock, on this version, which is used to set the cities ring. 

Here again, you have the choice between a black or a blue dial. And between a calf or an alligator strap. 

The movement is the Cal 752 ( 751 + world time module ) which has the same characteristics than the Cal 751, naturally. 

It is water resistant to 100 meters, which will be enough to face any situation. 

These three first Polaris 2018 have a see through case back, which is not the case for the two remaining models we'll see now.

4/ The Polaris Date. 

A Polaris looking like THE Polaris, but without alarm. That would be the best way to describe the Polaris Date. 

Here the hour markers, indices and hands are filled with super luminova, vanilla colored, to give a vintage look to the watch.

The lume shot: 

The case is in steel, and 42 mm big. It is water resistant to 200 meters.

And the case back is solid, with a reminder of the Super Compressor Logo, for a case which is not Super Compressor anymore.

Like for the Polaris Automatic, one crown disappeared, with the absence of the alarm. 

No blue dial, here, only a black dial. But you have the choice between a totally new rubber strap, and the new steel bracelet; featured on this wrist shot: 

The movement is the Cal 899/1, automatic, beating at 28, 800 alternances per hour, with a power reserve of 38 hours. 

5/ The Polaris Memovox. 

This is THE Anniversary piece which was chosen by Jaeger Lecoultre to celebrate the 50th birthday of the icon. 

And the closest to the icon, too. 

The steel case has the same size ( 42 mm ), it is differently shaped than the original, though, it looks more modern. Such is the dial, available in black, only. Close, with its vanilla superluminova indices and hands, but not totally the same. 

Indeed, like for the 4 other Polaris belonging to the 2018 collection, the indices and hours markers are applied, which was not the case on the original from 1968, nor on the Tribute from 2008. The finishings of the inner and outer dial are different, too, as mentioned at the beginning of this review.

The hours and minute hands are enlarged. The hours markers are bigger, too. And there is a small square at the left of the date. 

The word " automatic " is correctly shaped, but the " Memovox " mention on the alarm was present only on the Lecoultre version, not the Jaeger Lecoultre Polaris 1968.

Here a side by side picture to show you the evident differences:

The third crown is back, but they all are differently shaped. 

The new Polaris Crowns:

The case back, showing the Super Compressor Logo case, is a nod to the original Polaris and the Tribute, but it is not a super compressor case anymore. 

And last but not least, the plexy has been replaced for a sapphire, domed. 

The movement is, without surprise, the Cal 956, which was already housed in the Tribute To " Polarises ". An automatic movement, beating at 28, 800 vibrations per hour, with a 44 hours power reserve, and major improvement from the former alarm movement from Jaeger Lecoultre, allowing a quick set of the date. 

Let's end with two more informations: The Polaris Memovox is available with the all new rubber strap, only, and it is a limited edition of 1, 000 pieces. This is the only Polaris from these 5 new ones to be offered in a limited edition. 

To avoid any confusion, there is no Boutique Edition, here. 

CONCLUSION: MY PERSONAL THOUGHTS AND FEELINGS.

When I discovered these five new Polaris in September past year, I was surprised, and a bit worried. 

Indeed, it is always risky to play with an icon, first, then to make another Polaris, after the Tribute which was warmly welcomed. 

With these 5 new Polaris, Jaeger Lecoultre plays a different card. 

The 50th Anniversary piece is definitely not a Tribute nor a Re Edition, but should rather be seen as a modern Polaris, a bit like what Rolex does with the Submariner, the Seadweller, the GMT MASTER or the Daytona, or Blancpain, with another legend, the Fifty Fathoms. And I find it is a nice offer, with a good balance between tradition and modernity. 

The four others are more fictions: Without a date and / or an alarm, or with the addition of a chronograph and a world time, Jaeger Lecoultre plays with its icon, BUT with some key elements borrowed to or inspired by its design. 

I had the time to analyze these watches since I saw them " in the metal " some 4 months ago. 

There are two obvious messages sent by the Manufacture: 

- With such a wide offer, the Manufacture allows the fans of the brand to find their watch. Some will prefer the sobriety of the Polaris Automatic, without date, with a nicely balanced dial, while others will favor a more complex version, such as the Polaris Chronograph World Time, or the historical spirit of the 50th Anniversary, revisited. 

- The fans wanted a new line of sports watches. This offer is now existing. Will this new family answer to all our desires, hopes, secret desires?  

I for one was very attracted by the Polaris Chronograph World Time, which is my favorite among the five, especially with is blue dial. I like the balance of the Polaris Automatic dial a lot, without date, and with these four hours markers.

I am happy to see the return of some new sport chic watches from the Manufacture, I am now expecting something daring, technically and or aesthetically. 

What about you? 

Best,

Nicolas

More posts: Amvox1 AlarmGMT MasterJaeger LeCoultreMaster CompressorMaster Compressor MemovoxMaster MemovoxMemovoxPolaris 1965Polaris 1968Sea DwellerTribute To Polaris 1968

  login to reply