A review on the Jaeger Lecoultre SIHH 2015. Duometre Unique Travel Time, chiseled dial.

Sep 13, 2017,03:01 AM
 

 


Duometre Unique Travel Time. That name sounds familiar to you since its unveil on the 20th of November 2012, here, in your favourite JLC forum:


It has first been unveiled in white gold, a limited edition of 100 pièces for the Paris Boutique ( 2013 Collection ), then, one year after, in rose gold ( not limited ).

 

 



You will not find big changes in the characteristics of this new iteration of the UTT:

White Gold case, 42 mm big, 13, 56 mm high, water resistant to 50 meters. Cal 383, manual winding, 50 hours power reserve.

Of course, the travel time is adjustable to the minute, with a digital jumping hour. 2 power reserve indicators, one for the home time, the other for the travel time.

The big difference with the former versions is the way the dial is finished as this version receives a chiseled main dial.

 
This technique is somehow half way between engraving and sculpting. It consists in removing material from the dial with a special graver.

The different elements of the dial are made in brass. The main dial is chiseled, then rhodium plated, while the two sub dials are opaline rhodium plated.

One more difference, the digital jumping hour indication ( of the time zone ) is all red, while only the " 7 " and the " 9 " are red in the Paris Boutique Edition. You also have a red minute hand, for the time zone.

The hours and the minutes are treated in a different color, to make a clearer distinction between the home time and the time zone.

 
Same for the power reserve hands for the time zone and the home time.

The hands mare made of brass, to be complete.

For the story, the first execution of this dial was not very convincing, and Jaeger Lecoultre decided to postpone the presentation of this piece, to get a much better result. I had the opportunity to see the first prototype, and I can witness the fact that and the main dial and the sub dials were not convincing at all. Now, we have a quite subtle and more pleasant contrast between the two parts of the dial.

Another detail to be mentioned: As it is hand made, each dial is unique, and doesn't look like another one, if you have a closer look to each of them.

I would also like to add that the Manufacture shows another way to finish their dials. After the " hammered " dial of the Gyrotourbillon 3, and the grained dial of the Duometre à Chronographe or of the former UTTs, now you have the chiseled technique, which explains the " raison d'être " of this latest UTT version: A Métiers Rare Edition, capitalizing on the Manufacture savoir faire they are developing for some years, now.

As we are at it, I would have loved to see an improved finish of the movement. I mean deeper anglages, maybe. Not that the movement is not pleasant to look at, by far, but since we have a Métiers D' Art Edition, I would have also expected an improved finish on the movement, too.

 

This new version is a limited edition of 200 pieces. Which surprised me a bit, to say the least, since the last CEO, Mr Lambert, told me that the Paris Boutique Edition will be the only one in white metal. But the CEO changed, and obviously, they forgot that " detail ".

As for a conclusion, I would say that this latest version is very nice looking, which was not the case of the first prototype I saw in January 2015.

But I would have preferred to see this chiseled dial on the Quantième Lunaire, rather than on the UTT. Why? Because this kind of finishing " invades " your attention, more than on the complication, and, with the UTT, the complication is the Queen, the Star, while on the Quantième Lunaire, the complication is secondary. So, such a finishing would be better welcome, in my opinion, on the Quantième Lunaire, but this is just my own opinion.

Another important detail on the chiseled dial is that you will have to pay quite an important premium, compared to the Paris Boutique Edition, which  remains my favorite.

 

Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts.

Best,

Nicolas


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Stunning Piece

 
 By: RG1 : September 13th, 2017-03:13
I like those red hands a lot...

Great review, always stunned when looking at the movement

 
 By: crown comfort : September 13th, 2017-03:23
and I'm with you: the Paris Boutique edition is the benchmark.

Beautiful watch.

 
 By: kev09 : September 13th, 2017-03:41
I'm very taken by the chiselled dial I think it looks great and really makes the two dials stand out beautifully. I also like the different colours they have used for the hands and time zone hours. Those colours plus the blue and silver? on the globe make... 

The time zones engraved on the back are just here to remind them to you, when you want to set your watch correctly. As for the power reserve indicators, they are...

 
 By: amanico : September 13th, 2017-14:42
Here to remind you that the Duometre has two barrels with their gear trains... The Duometre is a concept I like a lot. A brillant family, with no equivalent anywhere else. Best, Nicolas

The Duometre line has been a huge hit for JLC

 
 By: Joepny : September 13th, 2017-05:08
and it seems like they love it so much that they cannot help but treat it like a blank canvas and apply their dreams to it. I agree with you, I am not sure it always works. And has the canvas been overused?, perhaps it may be good to let the paint dry on ... 

I wouldn't say No 🤗

 
 By: Joepny : September 13th, 2017-19:34
but please JLC, make the rattrapante very special --> white metal, black enamel dial and very limited, no more than 100 pieces 🙏

I have to say I love the contrast here

 
 By: emcquillan : September 13th, 2017-05:11
The subdials and globe really pop and the colour combination is superb. I find the Duometre just a touch big for what I consider a dress watch complication, but something about this version seems more substantial in a good way and more complex. I see your... 

Thank you for this review

 
 By: Alkiro1 : September 13th, 2017-06:02
Even if I had not the pleasure to see them in real, I have a soft spot for the chiseled version as it brings a greater "human and poetic touch" despite a more significant price. Nevertheless, I have one "issue" with these models. Due to the necessity to a... 

Well thought out. Thanks for the answer

 
 By: Alkiro1 : September 13th, 2017-14:51
Best wishes Alkiro

Pleasure. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : September 13th, 2017-23:04

I have to say...

 
 By: KMII : September 13th, 2017-06:27
That in spite of the undoubted technical / artisanal achievement with this dial, I still prefer the Paris Boutique Edition. But then it's just a personal preference. Thanks for this great review!

Me too, truth to be told. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : September 13th, 2017-23:04

It's a nice watch but ...

 
 By: nilomis : September 13th, 2017-07:01
I let it go. It attracts way too much attention and, where I live, this is not good. It was just sitting on my vault, without getting any wrist time. One of my last pictures before it went to another wrist. Cheers, Nilo ...