H. Moser & Cie : Novelties presented at the SIHH 2017… and more !

Mar 05, 2017,17:57 PM
 

I’ll start this post with the latest novelty presented by the brand just few days back, actually over a month after the SIHH 2017:

SIMPLE, EFFECTIVE, UNDERSTATED: THE ENDEAVOUR PERPETUAL CALENDAR PURITY

Complexity made simple: this is the philosophy of the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar – undoubtedly the purest, most ingenious and most practical perpetual calendar available. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity sees the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture pursue its carefully thought-out approach which foregoes branding, focusing on the refined understatement of this model. Available in a limited edition of 50 pieces, with a new 42 millimetre case enhanced by a dynamic, sculpted design, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity is the ultimate expression of minimalism and purity, with no logo on the dial and the simplicity of double indices. This watch radiates a timeless beauty, proving that true luxury needs no unnecessary adornment.

An iconic piece, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar from H. Moser & Cie. is renowned for its complex movement, but also for its absolute simplicity. Without multiple sub-dials or an illegible date disc: the indices show not only the hours, but also the months, using a small central hand. A very large date window at 3 o’clock with a new date design and a power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock complete the piece, making it the most legible and easy-to-set watch available, as it can be adjusted forwards or backwards at any time of day. The HMC 800 calibre is housed in a new Endeavour case, whose lines have been adapted to increase the diameter beyond the 40.8 mm model. Measuring 42 mm, this case has a more dynamic look while still resting elegantly on the wrist thanks to its curved case-back.

The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity pushes H. Moser’s minimalist philosophy even further: the dial has indices only at 12 and 6 o'clock and there is no visible logo or brand name. With its magnificent and mysterious midnight-blue fumé dial, this model remains immediately recognisable, proving that true luxury is unmistakable, even without ostentatious branding.



But let’s come back now to the numerous novelties presented in January at the SIHH in Geneva…

SIMPLE AND AUTHENTIC: THE VENTURER SMALL SECONDS PURITY

With the introduction of the well-known here Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Series in 2015, H. Moser & Cie had already made a brilliant demonstration of the minimalist credo "less is more". With watches showing neither indices nor logo, H. Moser made a clear statement that a true luxury product is unmistakeable and requires no marketing or branding to speak on its behalf.

Today with the Venturer Small Seconds Purity, H. Moser reiterates the same great concept with a dial featuring indices at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock and a small second sub counter at 6. The logo remains absent, allowing the beauty of the fumé dials to shine through, unimpeded. As custom in haute horlogerie, and a tradition for H. Moser & Cie watches since 1828, the company signature and crest appear on the movement side. The Venturer Small Seconds Purity is launched in 2 versions: sky-blue fumé dial for the white gold model and the signature fumé one for the version in red gold.


As for the movement, the HMC 327 hand-wound Manufacture caliber is visible through the sapphire case-back and has a power reserve of at least 3 days which is marked by an indicator on the movement side.


HERITAGE PERPETUAL MOON: POETIC CLASSICISM

With the Heritage Perpetual Moon, H. Moser & Cie. is re-establishing the prestige of the most poetic complication: the representation of the lunar cycle. With its influence over the seas and the oceans, the moon holds a mysterious fascination for man. Showcased in a large window at 6 o’clock, the eye-catching moon elevates this model to an expression of classical watchmaking.

Drawing inspiration from H. Moser pocket watches, cases in the Heritage collection are rounded with refined accents that complement the engraving and blue enamel on the case flanks. The distinctive classicism of the Heritage Perpetual Moon is evident in the notched crown and "Grand Feu" enamel on the dial, enlivened by the hand-painted Roman numerals and the flame-blued swallow-tail hands. Elegance and refinement have been watchwords for the creation of this exceptional piece, with fine lugs that enhance its traditional character. This exceptional Heritage Perpetual Moon will be made in a limited edition of 30 pièces.



The Heritage Perpetual Moon is powered by the HMC 801 hand-wound Manufacture calibre, equipped with an interchangeable Moser escapement, ensuring the watch has a minimum 7-day power reserve, with a power reserve indicator on the movement side.


TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES IN A MINIMALIST STYLE: THE ENDEAVOUR CONCEPT GUILLOCHÉ COLLECTION

Renowned for the beauty of the dials it creates, H. Moser & Cie. has reinterpreted the famed sunburst pattern featured on its fumé dials and is unveiling a new model that honours tradition and craftsmanship: the Endeavour Concept Guilloché Limited Edition, with a dial engraved by a skilled guilloché craftsman. Combining expertise and a modern touch, H. Moser & Cie. has created a contemporary model with an understated, minimalist design that remains true to the Concept Series philosophy: no logos, no indices.

The Endeavour case in rose or white gold — available with or without a diamond-set bezel — amplifies the effect of the guilloché design, bringing the vibrant sky-blue colour to life. The strap in satin uses the same colour palette, creating a contemporary, monochrome effect. The rose gold model is limited to 10 pieces, while the white gold model with a diamond-set bezel is not limited




THE SWISS ALP WATCH MINUTE RETROGRADE: THE H. MOSER & CIE. TIMEPIECE WITH AN HAUTLENCE SURPRISE

H. Moser & Cie. likes to surprise… often in the most unexpected of places. The Swiss Alp Watch Minute Retrograde is a case in point. Pairing the rectangular case of its Swiss Alp Watch with the highly technical movement from its sister brand HAUTLENCE, H. Moser & Cie. has created a delightful surprise which combines tradition with modernity. This unique approach faithfully employs classic Haute Horlogerie techniques whilst incorporating the ultimate in technological movements.

On this jumping hours model, the hours are shown in Roman numerals — as is the tradition — and are driven by a chain system comprising 12 hinged links. Occurring every 60 minutes, the jump is not instantaneous, taking place over 3 to 4 seconds, in a controlled way to ensure the components are protected from shocks, thanks to the mechanism's integrated speed regulator. This smooth rotation, with no shock or loss of power, means that the wearer can admire the beauty of the movement at work. Equipped with two barrels, the HL2.0 automatic calibre on the Swiss Alp Watch Minute Retrograde guarantees a 45-hour power reserve, displayed on an indicator at 6 o'clock.

This white gold exceptional watch is a 10 piece limited edition.









And last but not least, let’s finish with the one that everybody was talking about at this SIHH:

THE VENTURER SWISS MAD

Edouard Meylan is not only a successful business man and a great entrepreneur but he is also a marketing genius. Because the message he wanted to convey about the new rules of the « Swiss made » was not relayed as much as he wanted in 2016 (probably because the message was presented in a too austere and serious way), he decided to make a marketing breakthrough with a very daring and innovative approach and decided to launch the « Swiss Mad Watch ».

With its Swiss Mad Watch and the Venturer Swiss Mad model, H. Moser & Cie. is highlighting the weakness in the Swiss Made legislation for watches. Its message is simple but powerful: no to Swiss Made, yes to Swissness. H. Moser & Cie. has decided to remove the Swiss Made label from the dial of all new watches created from 2017 onwards. This is a bold strategy which once again proves that Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., is not interested in half-measures: « We are no longer 'Swiss Made', but we are Swiss. »

More than a watch, the Swiss Mad Watch is a symbol: it is 100% Swiss, it embodies the greatest strength of Swiss Haute Horlogerie and all that is truly of value, encapsulated in a label worthy of this name. The Venturer Swiss Mad model shares in the spirit of the Swiss Mad Watch. It features the same design, with the exception of its 39 mm 18K white gold case, the only material of the watch which is not of Swiss origin, as there are no gold mines in Switzerland. The case for this watch was, however, produced in Switzerland, so the timepiece is 100% Swiss according to current legislation, which takes no account of the origin of the materials. The Venturer Swiss Mad flies the Swiss colors high with its red fumé dial featuring white lacquered indices, evoking the white cross on the national flag, and paired with a cowhide strap. This model has all the typical characteristics of the Venturer watch family: the case, with its convex shapes and curved sapphire crystal evocative of the 1960s, which is also inspired by historic H. Moser & Cie. pocket watches.

The manual wound HMC 327 Manufacture calibre has a power reserve of 3 days (shown in an indicator on the reverse side of the watch) and is visible through the sapphire case-back.


H. Moser & Cie is definitely a fascinating brand and obviously much more than thanks to their stunning fumé dials only, even if they have now become an immediately recognizable element by all watch lovers.

Cheers,

Mike


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Comments: view entire thread

 

Thank you Mike for covering these beauties in details.

 
 By: Luis6 : March 5th, 2017-18:18
The quality of the photos I took at H. Moser's Taipri event two weeks ago were too shabby to do the watches any justice. Your photos, on the other hand, are fantastic and true to the real colors.

Thans for your kind words Luis and I well understand...

 
 By: Mike H : March 6th, 2017-12:27
...H. Moser watches are often not easy to take in picture: they look stunning, their dial is mesmerizing but when you want to capture this with a camera pfff... reflections of light are very often ruining the splendid beauty of the watches... I did my bes... 

Thank you for the great photos, Mike!

 
 By: watchestolove : March 5th, 2017-21:18
This is the first proper non official photo of the funky blue Venturer Purity I've seen so far, and probably the most true to life. Were you able to get a photo of the funky blue beside the grey version?

You make me blush Kevin...

 
 By: Mike H : March 6th, 2017-12:36
Thanks for the compliment Sorry no pic of the grey version but tell me if you have a dream picture and I'll do my best to make your dream come true... one day (be patient)

A terrible photo

 
 By: mikemargolis : March 15th, 2017-08:03
but a live photo nonetheless ...  

Thanks for the coverage!

 
 By: traineract : March 6th, 2017-05:46
My favourite has to be the Swiss Alps Minutes Retrograde. That retrograde is just a mechanical marvel to behold.

Yes, a true marvel...

 
 By: Mike H : March 6th, 2017-12:33
...not a daily wearer of course but a fantastic timepiece for sure !

Indeed indeed.... [nt]

 
 By: traineract : March 17th, 2017-10:55

Great revoew of the Mose 2017 Novelties.

 
 By: Bill : March 6th, 2017-10:17
Going to require a second read. Thanks Bill

Thanks for the kind words Bill...

 
 By: Mike H : March 6th, 2017-12:35
...but no rush, take your time for reading thoroughly with no moderation Best my friend, Mike

Many thanks Mike for this "Moser report" and your nice shots

 
 By: Alkiro1 : March 6th, 2017-14:26
Well, you know that I love this brand as it offers fantastic dials, homemade hairsprings, wonderful movements and true innovations such as the ones inside the perpetual calendar ("flash calendar" for instance). I only have one drawback about this specific... 

Thanks for your feedback my friend ; I have a solution to your problem...

 
 By: Mike H : March 6th, 2017-15:49
...with the date window (which between you and me does not disturb me but I respect your reluctance with it): H. Moser do make several models without date window in the Endeavour Grande or Petite Seconde, also in the Venturer line, and even with the Herit...  

Of course I could find wonderful models and, more particularly, splendid dials in the Moser collection without date but my answer was more about the date window style of the perpetual calendar. I would have enjoyed another way to display it.

 
 By: Alkiro1 : March 7th, 2017-10:59
For instance, the little hand for months is such a good idea and well thought that I would like something similar for the date. Moser should listen to me and work on that ))) Best wishes Alkiro

Beautiful photos!

 
 By: jmpTT : March 28th, 2017-04:50
Have enjoyed all the iterations of the perpetual calendar, including this standout Purity version. However, the sumptuous case and dial of the Heritage Perpetual Moon make it the standout for me. The retrograde Swiss Alp watch is a lovely watch, but I fee... 

Great post and stunning pictures .

 
 By: Watchonthewrists : April 5th, 2017-03:25
As a new Moserlover ( just purchased a Moser a few weeks ago ) i really like the brand . Loved them for a while now but after SIHH this year i knew i had to add one to my collection . Again great post mike , thanks

Hi Mike!

 
 By: sham1 : April 17th, 2017-09:28
Fantastic post , thank you. I am a bit of a slow starter when it comes to Moser and always knew they made amazing movements and even supply hairsprings to many including Kari Voutilainen. I have tried a couple on before but they have always been too large...  

The Heritage Perpetual Moon is...

 
 By: Mike H : April 17th, 2017-10:12
...42 mm diameter and 12.2 mm height. Limited Edition 30 pièces only, around 54 keur if I recall correctly... Hope this helps

Many thanks Mike!

 
 By: sham1 : April 17th, 2017-10:15
Too large for me unfortunately :-(