Horological Meandering

Ornatus-Mundi
[Zenith]
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Quick BaselWorld 2018 Live Pics: The Longines Military Watch

This watch surely is one of the highlights of the fair, as a vintage-inspired military timepiece which does so much right: period-correct dial (with a twist, more later), little inscriptions, 38.5mm case with this caseback, upgraded movement and superb price: this should be an instant hit!



Longines has taken a WWII watch originally supplied to the fighter pilots of the Royal Air Force, and re-introduced it in a modern, upgraded fashion, yet still retaining its vintage appearance such that many actually mistook this for the original piece.

The Saint-Imier-based brand retained the 38.5mm case, this gorgeous, oversize crown and the simple, straightforward case finishing. The crystal is (of course) no longer acrylic, but a boxed sapphire crystal that is, however, shape-polished such as to mimic an acrylic one - just look at the light arch below traversing from 10 to 4 o'clock:



The watch's dial is a source of much affection and controversy at the same time: It is beautifully crafted with a silvery-silky surface, simple indices and a railroad track. Artificial patina on the flip-side is what makes each piece an unique item, since the spots that fake age are randomly applied, thus there are no two identical watches. They are not caused by a natural ageing process, which might irritate a few (the author at times included).



The hands appear to be heat-blued steel, a detail I have yet to confirm through my contacts at Longines. I love their shape regardless, and particularly the fact that Longines chose to given them a 3D, curved surface instead of simply stamping them out.



And then the back: again, period-perfect. Well done! Beneath the back you would find a Longines Cal. L888, an automatic movement based on an ETA A31. This engine is unusual in a way that it beats at a strange rate of 25,200 vph (equivalent to 3.5 Hz), in an effort to increase power reserve to a healthy autonomy of 64- 65 hours.



Didn't I say it looks good?



Despite the inevitable ethical controversies on the artificial patina (or 'fauxtina' as other blogs have coined it), I think this is a lovely piece and a sure success for Longines.

Cheers,
Magnus

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