L.U.C Perpetual T – Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac

Nov 15, 2017,16:04 PM
 

A Watch with a View


After 20 years of the L.U.C Collection from the Chopard Manufacture, Chopard has garnered aficionados around the globe.

Just as the Swiss & European Establishment has deigned to recognised excellence at Chopard with the “Aiguille d’Or” at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2017, top collectors in the emerging markets of the Americas, Gulf States and the Far East have switched on to their "in-house approach to watch manufacturing".

Without a historical “brand logo bias“, these new aficionados can just focus on the merits of the watches they buy.





L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac Ref.161941-5002

Rewarding the connoisseurs amongst the Chinese of the Far East and celebrating life’s finest milestones, as well as honouring traditional Chinese arts, Chopard reached an astronomical level with an extraordinary new one-off creation: L.U.C Perpetual T – Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac.

Chopard artisans created an entirely hand-engraved rose gold case depicting the 12 signs of the Chinese Zodiac. This superlative paragon of artistic craftsmanship, paying tribute to a culture, is intended for the most discerning collector.




L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac Ref.161941-5002

After creating an annual edition of the L.U.C XP Urushi, in tribute to the Oriental Zodiac sign in-residence as reported before HERE, with the L.U.C Perpetual T – Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac, Chopard has portrayed the entire Chinese Zodiac on the case with a black patina coating adorning 18-carat rose gold.

The 12 signs are individually represented using the champlevé engraving technique. Meticulous patience was the currency needed to hollow out little cavities that are then filled with black patina. The engraver devoted 200 hours to create this tribute to Chinese culture with 12 animals in chronological order symbolising the Chinese calendar.




L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac Ref.161941-5002

The tiger’s head is seen on the crown while his body adorns the case.

A dragon and a snake are coiled between the lugs.



L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac Ref.161941-5002

Naturally rare by its sheer complexity and the work involved in its making, as well as by the mastery of artistic crafts it entails, the L.U.C Perpetual T – Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac is a limited edition of one piece.

It will be the object of an exclusive presentation to Asian collectors at a private exhibition in Beijing.



L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac Ref.161941-5002



Mechanical Exclusivity




Calibre L.U.C 02-15L

As befitting a depiction of the Chinese calendar, the mechanical movement is one of the most prestigious horological complication – a perpetual calendar, a tourbillon and with more than one-week power reserve ensured by the four barrels of the Quattro® system – raises this timepiece to the noblest rank.

The perpetual calendar carries technical as well as ergonomic significance. Indicating the complete date while taking account of the variable durations of the months, including leap years, is a challenge ably met by L.U.C Calibre 02.15-L.

The L.U.C Perpetual T, fully encased, has successfully undergone testing by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute to allow the “Chronometer” inscription on the dial.



Aesthetic Exclusivity




L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac Ref.161941-5002

The solid gold dial of the L.U.C Perpetual T is decorated with a hand-engraved motif from traditional Chinese iconography and also features on the bezel and the rose gold buckle. The entire L.U.C Calibre 02.15-L has been hand-decorated in keeping with the traditions of Haute Horlogerie.

The quality of the surface treatments and construction restrictions entitles the L.U.C Perpetual T – Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac to bear the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal) quality hallmark.


Price

US$ 264,380.
HK$ 1,840,000.
SG$ 336,990.
RMB or CNY 1,790,000.


PuristS Comments

There are many timepieces for the aficionado of fine watchmaking available today from a handful of superb watchmakers. Personally and on behalf of PuristSPro, I consider myself blessed with the opportunity to experience some of the best.

I am exquisitely happy with my modest personal watch collection from Chopard but this L.U.C Perpetual T – Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac made me gasp in wonder.

If only I had the spare quarter million dollars......

"The true cost of luxury is the choice that it affords."


Technical details
L.U.C Perpetual T – Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac
Unique piece in 18-carat rose gold
 

Case:
18ct rose gold
Total diameter  43 mm
Thickness  15.02 mm
Water resistance  30 metres
Hand-engraved 18ct rose gold crown 6.50 mm
Case middle hand-engraved with the 12 Chinese zodiac signs ordered chronologically
Bezel hand-engraved with motifs inspired by Chinese iconography
Glareproofed sapphire crystal
Open case-back

Movement:
Hand-wound movement L.U.C 02.15-L
Number of components 353
Total diameter 33.00 mm
Thickness 9.35 mm
Number of jewels  31
Frequency   28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve       approx. 216 hours
Four barrels - Quattro technology
Tourbillon regulator, blackened steel bridge
Phillips terminal curve
Bridges adorned with the Côtes de Genève motif
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark

Dial and hands:
Hand-engraved and varnished 18ct gold dial bearing slate grey snailed counters
Perpetual calendar indications (twin-aperture large date, day of the week and 24-hour sub-dial, month and leap-year counter)
Dauphine fusée-type hands for the hours and minutes as well as the calendar days and months; gilt small seconds hand
Triangular date and year hands


Functions and displays:
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds and tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Large date at 12 o’clock
Perpetual calendar
Power-reserve indicator on the case-back side


Strap and buckle:
Hand-sewn black alligator leather with alligator lining
Hand-engraved 18ct rose gold pin buckle

Ref. 161941-5002 – unique piece in 18K rose gold


Regards,

MTF



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Comments: view entire thread

 

If the Chinese emperor still exist, wearing this during his coronation ceremony with the yellow dragon robes will look awesome :)

 
 By: Clueless_Collector : November 15th, 2017-16:13
A commoner wearing this will be captured and beheaded.. Just kidding....looks great and what a craftsmanship, sincere admiration. Rgds Raymond

Very artistic, I rather like it!

 
 By: MichaelC : November 15th, 2017-17:02
Well done by Chopard, especially as a unique piece.

Chinese rolling cloud and thunder meander pattern

 
 By: MTF : November 15th, 2017-19:31
Actually, the design is Chinese rolling cloud and thunder pattern from neolithic times viz. "yunwen" and "leiwen" motifs. The Greeks had a similar pattern that developed separately as representation of meandering river or labyrinth. Regards, MTF ...  

But the calendar does not follow the Chinese lunar calendar?

 
 By: jomni1 : November 15th, 2017-17:13
It’s conventional Gregorian calendar. Am I correct?

For a single piece...

 
 By: MTF : November 15th, 2017-19:15
...the perpetual calendar makes the conventional adjustment of one day every four years (leap year). This is unlike the Chinese lunar calendar that simply follows the lunar cycles as a 13-Moon calendar; 7-day week and 28-day month. As Chopard already make... 

Yup that’s what I mean.

 
 By: jomni1 : November 15th, 2017-19:21
Would be great if a watchmaker manages to do a real Chinese calendar.

The problem is of Chinese origin

 
 By: MTF : November 15th, 2017-20:00
Actually, the mechanism is already there for a traditional 13-Moon calendar. A simple dial change to the L.U.C Lunar One mechanism is sufficient. The problem arises because modern Chinese wanted a solar based calendar with un-natural 12 months (Western st... 

That’s cool! [nt]

 
 By: jomni1 : November 15th, 2017-23:26

Yes definitely

 
 By: Alkiro1 : November 16th, 2017-00:08
Best wishes Alkiro

Far too big...

 
 By: mdg : November 15th, 2017-17:14
...(and thick) and far too expensive for what it is imho...

To clarify...

 
 By: MTF : November 15th, 2017-19:42
All L.U.C Perpetual T watches are the same size 43 mm diameter. They did not make this unique piece bigger than the normal, contemporary, production models. Regards, MTF

That may be so...

 
 By: mdg : November 15th, 2017-22:22
...but it is at least 2mm thicker than my Submariner. And this may be an unpopular opinion, but watches in general have become HUGE. I have a relatively large (normal I think) wrist (7.25 inches or 18.2cm (forgive me if I get that wrong...American) : ) My... 

True words and everybody's taste is right for everyone

 
 By: kolosstt : November 15th, 2017-22:46
The same thinking could be used as well as for cars. Why is any Porsche of today much bigger than a 356 from some years ago? In todays world, it might all come down to design and liking, since in the machine world of today, I don't really think that a sta... 

I love collecting all these tuppences

 
 By: MTF : November 16th, 2017-00:15
Two cents here and two cents there... Maybe I can save up enough to get the amount I need to afford one Thanks for ALL opinions, folks. In the end, the market determines the outcome. Regards, MTF

If u take my cents for yourself,

 
 By: kolosstt : November 16th, 2017-08:43
... isn't that like stealing my money. ...joking... ) And yes, good to have a place to have all sorts of opinions openly (unlike for many news sites maybe). Cheers Kolosstt

You (and MTF) are correct I think...

 
 By: mdg : November 16th, 2017-10:04
...in that the market takes care of it. These will either be purchased or not. But the market doesn't always work when only one option is offered. As far as art goes...yes it is art in terms of the hand-work that goes into it. While the case engraving is ... 

Great post my friend and what a stunning watch 👌🏻😘

 
 By: Watchonthewrists : November 15th, 2017-22:40
I do have a little love for engraved watches . This looks just beautiful . I know it will look even better in person . Thanks 🤗

So, you never heard of the Great Progenitor?

 
 By: MTF : November 16th, 2017-00:29
The Great Progenitor stirred his celestial staff to create the Cosmos and Earth. We all inherited the planet. Some cultures died out or lost their records. Some never learnt to write or even maintain their storytelling. The Chinese survived, invented stuf... 

Absolutely not! 😊

 
 By: Alkiro1 : November 16th, 2017-04:36
I’m happy to learn many things everyday here and not only about watches 😉 Best wishes Alkiro

Good mess ;)

 
 By: Karlisnet : November 17th, 2017-00:23
With all my appreciation to this wonderful piece of art, it is hard to understand the selection of the greek key pattern for the bezel in a chinese theme. Having lived in both countries, China and Greece, it is kind of funny to observe the mess... sorry t...