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Baselworld 2017: L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony
Now, we come to a watch that reveals the dichotomy of the collector's soul.
Designed for ladies of refined taste and obvious fiscal means, the L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony may also attract the attention of a few male potentates in the Middle East, Indonesia and Thailand where ostentatious is the theme of life.
I must confess to a fascinating allure engendered by the sheer artistry and horological wizardry that the timepiece exudes, even though I do not reside in the aforementioned regions....
L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony
Fleurisanne Engraving Living Art
Chopard Fleurisanne engraving master at work
Each year since 2014, Chopard has presented a L.U.C XP watch. More recently, they have been cloaked in artistic craftsmanship: Fleurisanne Engraving.
Truth be told, it is actually "craftswomanship" as the best current exponents are ladies.
L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony
This timepiece is a flagship model of its line in the L.U.C collection by Chopard. Having said that, the "line" is usually only 8 pieces a year in a limited edition, entirely produced in-house in its Fleurier-based Manufacture. The 35 mm diameter case allows a plethora of delicate variations.
For 2017, Fleurisanne engraving appears on the dial and movement of the new L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier. The floral theme is again the peony but in glowing two-tones of colour.
L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony - Sketch
The L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony follows on from its older sisters: the L.U.C XPS 35mm Esprit de Fleurier and the L.U.C XP 35mm Esprit de Fleurier Peony presented in 2015 and 2016.
It picks up the design motifs of its siblings, drawing from their light and flowing lines.
From Fleurier to China
The village of Fleurier is nestled in a quiet valley at the confluence of three rivers, whose banks are wreathed in wild flowers each spring that inspired the town's name. Also the birthplace of fine watchmaking craftsmanship with clients as far afield as 19th century China. Apart from the technical complexity, reliability and precision of the movements, the Chinese Imperial clients were also attracted to the relief engraving of scrolling patterns and flowers: Meadowsweet, Edelweiss and especially the Peony.
Today, the favoured peony decorates both the face and heart of the L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony.
L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony
Patience begets Perfection
Floral motif drawn on movement before engraving
There is no School of Engraving so the artisan who crafts the eight Chopard timepieces has no formal training. Yet, she has mastered the art of Fleurisanne engraving. This is in keeping with the logic that no "learning" can succeed in "teaching" mastery of this delicate technique.
Chopard has battled the threat of extinction of traditional engraving technique by providing in-house, hands-on training for the nimble fingers capable of perpetuating it.
Each L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony watch requires more than 6 weeks of work to engrave the dial and movement.
Fleurisanne technique based on progressive material removal
Noble Touch of the Artisan
Engraver gives 3-D dimension to peony flowers
L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony has a two-level white gold dial. Entirely crafted in the Manufacture, the double white gold dial is sculpted using a raised rather than a hollowed technique (relief engraving), to create a striking contrast with the background. By removing the surrounding material from the pattern, the artisan forms a prominent surface that can then be engraved.
Finishes design work with a sharp nib
Fleurisanne engraving finished
The case is stippled, dot-by-dot to create a finely grained appearance. It provides a perfect frame for the polished peonies to stand out spectacularly on the upper dial.
Their pistils are set with diamonds that further accentuate the refinement of the flower.
Base surrounding motif is stippled to create grainy effect
The dial reveals fascinating glimpses of the movement bridges, also engraved using the same Fleurisanne technique, and then gilded.
L.U.C 96.23-L2 movement assembled after Fleurisanne engraving and gilding
This gilding process is performed after engraving and also requires a great deal of patience and attention.
On the dial, just as on the bridges and even the platinum micro-rotor, the "volume-effect" is truly remarkable.
The artisanal sophistication extends onto the bezel and case sides that are entirely set with diamonds.
L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony
Fleurier, Chopard Manufacture's New Roots
Calibre L.U.C 96.23-L
The movement of the L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony has the patented Twin® technology, where two stacked coaxial barrels provide a long 65-hour power reserve.
Fitting such a sophisticated self-winding movement within an extra-flat 7.70 mm case is only possible by an ingenious micro-rotor configuration.
Calibre L.U.C 96.23-L
Conclusion
L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony
Perhaps the best of both worlds may be accommodated with this watch.
The gallant aficionado may purchase the L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony ostensibly for his sweet Love and in turn may borrow it occasionally, in the fullness of time and for use at the appropriate social circumstance.
Technical details
L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony
Case:
18-carat rose gold
Total diameter 35 mm
Thickness 7.70 mm
Water resistance 30 meters
18-carat rose gold crown with L.U.C logo 5.00 mm
Flanks, lugs and case middle set with diamonds
Exhibition case-back
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Movement:
Self-winding movement L.U.C 96.23-L
Number of components 168
Total diameter 27.40 mm
Thickness 3.30 mm
Number of jewels 29
Frequency 28,800 vph
Power reserve 65 hours Twin® technology
Two-tone movement in white gold and gilded in rose gold after engraving
Hand-crafted peony-motif Fleurisanne engraving
Platinum oscillating weight engraved with hand-crafted Fleurisanne engravings
Two barrels technology
Dial and hands:
Gold openworked dial with hand-crafted Fleurisanne engraving featuring a peony motif with diamonds set at the heart of the flowers
Dial construction revealing the engraved movement bridges
Gilded Dauphines type hours and minutes hands
Functions and displays:
Centrally driven display of the hours and minutes
Strap and buckle:
Anthracite brushed canvas strap
18-carat rose gold pin buckle set with diamonds
Ref. 131944-5002 in 18-carat rose gold
Eight-piece limited edition Boutique exclusivity CHF 130,000
Baselworld 2017: L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony
