Baselworld 2017: Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined

Mar 16, 2017,11:05 AM
 

Chopard was an early adopter of The Journey to Sustainable Luxury project that began in 2013 followed by the 2014 launch of the L.U.C Tourbillon QF Fairmined, the world’s first watch made from gold bearing the Fairmined certification. The next Fairmined certified watch was the L.U.C XPS Fairmined in 2015 that captivated everyone with its unique sunburst, satin-brushed, slate-grey galvanic dial.

For 2017, Chopard is launching a new limited-series L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined as further commitment to sustainable luxury.




L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined


This ultra-thin watch model is at the apogee of aesthetic, technical and ethical qualities.

Its on-trend design with-a-twist satisfies the avant garde aficionado with its chic and edgy appearance while the technophile will appreciate it achieving the watch industry’s most demanding certification: Foundation Qualite Fleurier (QF).

These attributes set it apart from other watches while contributing to improved living conditions of the miners who extract the gold.




Miners in the mountains ©ARM





L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined



A fine watch with distinctive aesthetic and moral standards




L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined

The L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined allows connoisseurs who either missed out on its predecessor or wish to collect another watch unlike any other.

Fairmined gold is exclusive to Chopard currently because the Manufacture is committed to purchase the entire global production.

The distinctive and coveted slate grey dial with a stamped sunburst texture is highlighted by the rose gold case and was inspired by the raw appearance of gold nuggets extracted from mines.




L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined

The crown and the small seconds sub-dial endow the timepiece with uniqueness being respectively off-centred at 4 and 7 o’clock.

It is only a few degrees askew but that is enough to excite aficionados of dials with quirky, subtle asymmetric appeal and exceptional personality.




L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined

The 7.20 mm high case proofs to be an exceptionally slender watch with L.U.C signature satin-brushed finishes on the sides, complemented by a polished case-back and bezel.

The thin elongated profile provides a comfortable fit on the wrist.

The alligator leather strap of the L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined is hand-sewn and dyed with eco-friendly plant-based pigments – in matt black for the main part and cognac-coloured for the lining.



Chopard continues its ethical commitment




Fairmined Gold

Chopard is a pioneer in the use of Fairmined gold for Haute Horlogerie watches within its long-term project “The Journey to Sustainable Luxury”.

Chopard set up a standard operating protocol in its Geneva workshops, where “Fairmined” gold is never mixed with other gold alloys and even the waste is dealt with separately, to guarantee the traceability of the “Fairmined” gold used in-house.




Case Stamping

Read about this project in a previous PuristSPro article: CHOPARD Technique & Aesthetic: Fairmined Gold



Certified Haute Horlogerie




L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined

Although the Foundation Qualite Fleurier (QF) certification is open to all Swiss watches, very few are successful and the vast majority are from L.U.Chopard.

Read a previous PuristSPro article: L.U.Chopard Qualité Fleurier 2014 - Ten Testing Years

Produced in a 250-piece limited series, each L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined watch has gained QF certification  – the most demanding in the watch industry. The QF means that your watch has an independent certification of precision of the movement, reliability, durability and the quality of its finishes.

Before any of these rigorous tests, the FQF regulations require that the entire watch – including movement and external components – must be produced in Switzerland.




L.U.C 96.09-L

The L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined is driven by the self-winding L.U.C Calibre 96.09-L movement, equipped with two barrels (Twin® technology), wound by a 22-carat gold micro-rotor ensuring a minimum 65-hour power reserve.

Its precision is tested by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) for its chronometer title.

Its reliability is then verified by the Chronofiable "torture test" – involving three weeks of “ageing tests” during which the watch is subjected to heat, cold and damp, repeated pull and push forces on the winding-stem, magnetic fields and repeated physical shocks.

The operation of the finished watch is then tested on the Fleuritest machine. Specially developed for the FQF, it reproduces the conditions of human wear on-the-wrist during a 24-hour cycle.





L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined


Conclusion

Despite its ultra-thin demeanour, the L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined is an exceptional horological tour de force imbued with bold twisted design, technical execution, admirable ethical approach and transcendent allure.
There will be 250 lucky owners out there!

 

Technical details




L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined

Case:
• Case in 18-carat “Fairmined” rose gold
• Total diameter      40.00 mm
• Thickness       7.20 mm
• Water resistance     30 metres
• Offset crown in 18-carat rose gold 4.00 mm at 4 o’clock with L.U.C Logo    
• Satin-brushed case middle, polished bezel and case-back
• Vertical satin-brushed space between the lugs
• Glareproofed sapphire crystal
• Open case-back with “Fairmined” engraving




L.U.C 96.09-L

Movement:
• Self-winding movement     L.U.C 96.09-L
• Total diameter:      27.40 mm
• Thickness:       3.30 mm
• Number of jewels:      29
• Frequency:      28,800 vph (4 Hz)
• Power reserve:      65 hours
• Two barrels - Twin® technology
• Self-winding via a 22-carat gold micro-rotor
• Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif
• Chronometer-certified (COSC)
• Fleurier Quality Foundation certified (FQF)




L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined


Dial and hands:
• Stamped dial, slate grey galvanic treatment
• Gilt Dauphine-type hours and minutes hands
• Gilt baton-type small seconds hands

Functions and displays:
• Central display of the hours and minutes
• Offset small seconds display at 7 o’clock

Strap and buckle:
• Strap in plant-dyed, CITES-certified hand-sewn matt black alligator leather with cognac-toned alligator leather lining
• 18-carat rose gold pin buckle


Ref. 161945-5001- in “Fairmined” 18-carat rose gold
250-piece limited edition


What do you think of the twist in the tale and textured dial?


Regards,

MTF



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Comments: view entire thread

 

+1 - less is more! [nt]

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : March 16th, 2017-12:25

I guess the Chopard dial is better than

 
 By: MTF : March 16th, 2017-13:06
...one that states: Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified Swiss Made And that's before the brand logo is added as well. Regards, MTF

+1 :-)

 
 By: Alkiro1 : March 16th, 2017-13:29
Best wishes Alkiro

Yes, what a pity!

 
 By: Alkiro1 : March 16th, 2017-14:37
Best wishes Alkiro

The live photos really enforce the computer generated ones

 
 By: MichaelC : March 16th, 2017-13:00
I'm afraid too often, a brand's artwork makes the watch look "better", or at least "different", than the real thing. Here, it seems like the dial is exactly how they advertise it. And that seems quite important on this model. Bravo, Chopard.

For a moment I thought it is less than 40 mm but still

 
 By: COUNT DE MONET : March 16th, 2017-13:05
It is a watch that oozes character! Very, very appealing Chopard there!

Beautiful dial and appreciate the fairmining

 
 By: SvB : March 16th, 2017-13:33
But I have to agree that the dial could benefit from less text...

Love it !

 
 By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : March 16th, 2017-16:19
excellent dial and case with a good cause to support miners fairly. Movement is beautiful too. What more to ask? Thanks for the sharing MTF Cheers Robin

Super-nice dial.

 
 By: CaliforniaJed : March 16th, 2017-19:48
I think my favorite thing about it may be the concentric circles of the seconds subdial juxtaposed against the galvanic treatment of the dial. And it this point in the evolution of the L.U.C DNA, it is so nice to see these hands, these hour markers used w... 

Lovely. Just lovely!

 
 By: Horologically_minded : March 16th, 2017-20:44
Glad that Chopard dropped the lume dots for this iteration! Killer dial! J

Lovely dial but

 
 By: sham1 : March 16th, 2017-23:05
it would perhaps have been better if Chopard had made the watch in a diameter of 37 to 38mm. The 27.4mm movement would have filled the case back much better and the watch would also cater for those with smaller wrists.

37 or 38mm diameter watches for men are passe

 
 By: MTF : March 17th, 2017-12:56
sham1, Alas, 38mm diameter men's watches are unlikely to be made by contemporary brands. 37mm watches are even more unlikely, from my chats with many brand executives in the last 10 years. Luckily, they all agree that the size inflation wars are over and ...  

That is a pity

 
 By: sham1 : March 17th, 2017-13:30
and thank goodness for Lange with their 35mm Saxonia, 38.5mm Lange 1 and IWC with their 36mm pilot watches. And Patek are still making 35mm and 36mm Calatravas and yes they do make 39mm Calatravas too so I would have hoped that Chopard made watches to cat... 

Agree...

 
 By: mdg : March 17th, 2017-15:26
(N.t.)

Wonderful interplay of the dial and the case

 
 By: KMII : March 17th, 2017-02:05
And the Fairmined element is definitely an additional appelaing component. The 4 o'clock crown and 7 o'clock small seconds hand is - in the meantime - a recognisable Chopard LUC element, IIRC in addition to theis watch at least the LUC 8 HF and the Tech T... 

Gorgeous!

 
 By: marcelo : March 18th, 2017-08:30
What about that "dislocated" sub-seconds?! WOW!

I'm just wondering

 
 By: KamalRostov : March 18th, 2017-10:48
why cant the subdial be positioned right above the 6 hour marker making the dial visually balanced instead? Is there a technical reason or may I say, a technical restriction to have it where it is now? Sorry if its a newbie question...

The Twist is for fun

 
 By: MTF : March 18th, 2017-12:55
The original L.U.C XPS Fairmined for 2015 was 'conventional'. This year's L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined has the additional twist of the dial and the QF certification. There is no reason except to be first, different and unique. Regards, MTF L.U.C XPS Fairm...  

Owh, thank you for the explanation :)

 
 By: KamalRostov : March 19th, 2017-07:04
I think I like the original dial layout much better!

If i was in the market

 
 By: halkcb : March 21st, 2017-23:34
for a 'functional' dress watch,this goes very high on the list. I like the eccentric position of the crown which seems to be congruent with the off centre small seconds dial. The wording seems to balance the quality fleurier symbol and i have little probl...