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Baselworld 2016: Isn't Simplicity Just Gorgeous?

The perpetual calendar is perhaps one of the most practical complication one can have in a mechanical watch. Not only does it know how many days there are in each month, it is also able to calculate when a leap year will occur. Some of you eagle-eyed readers will notice that the movement seen here is H. Moser's perpetual calendar movement, the HMC 341. Why am I on the topic of perpetual calendars?

The reason is the release of the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar at Baselworld this year. The Pioneer collection is H. Moser's interpretation of a sports watch. Robust for everyday wear yet refined by the touch of a traditional watchmaker. In fact,  the collection, in particular the Pioneer Centre Seconds, was launched in conjunction with the first Swiss parabolic flight  and tested in a weightless environment. Just to prove a point.

H. Moser & Cie relaunched in 2005 with the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar. The watch became an overnight success and even blew away the competition in the complication category at Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG ) 2006. The same movement used in the Endeavour is found in the Pioneer, albeit made a little bigger.

Since the movement has proven itself, let's take a more detailed look at it. At a glance, the watch seems way too simple and clean to be a perpetual calendar. First things first, the date indicator  is at the 3 o'clock. The up/down indicator  at the 9 o'clock is the power reserve gauge. And the day indicator are absent. How one is able to read the month indicator is where the watchmakers at H. Moser worked their magic. There are 12 months in a year. Coincidentally, there are 12 hours of AM and PM. Hence, the 12 indexes not only tell the time, they tell you the current month as well (indicated by the short central arrow hand). So looking at the picture, it would be December the 12th. Utter brilliance!

Despite the lack of a year indicator, the leap year indicator is in the form of a little star wheel placed on the case back. Again, the efforts put in so as to not clutter the dial are commendable. Moser's double pull crown allows adjustment in both directions, resulting in hassle-free adjustments. Another feature, the flash calendar, changes the date and month displayed in a flash (pun intended).

It is a standard feature in all H. Moser watches that their escapement modules have been designed to replaced upon servicing with a new calibrated one. This is done solely to streamlining the servicing process. However, to enthusiasts whom feel that a mechanical watch symbolises eternity and longevity, this feature may not be very well received.

All the technological features and 2 mainspring barrels come together, oscillating at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour and a remarkable power reserve  of 7 days.

The more aggressive and robust case is slightly bigger at 42.8mm and made of 5N red gold with black DLC-treated titanium components. A black ardoise fume dial is used to complete the black and red gold theme. SuperLuminova can be seen on the leaf-shaped hands and hour markers for increased practicality. Believe it or not, the watch is water-resistant up to 120m! And one can opt for the rubber strap so that the watch can really be taken underwater with no worries at all.

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