MTF
[PuristS]
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Piaget Altiplano Automatic Gem-Set Skeleton watch
Piaget Altiplano automatic gem-set Skeleton watch
I have always been wary of gem-set watches for men mainly because of association with the criminal element (drug dealers, money-laundering and gangsta rappers) especialy when a notorious New York purveyor of such watches is convicted and sent to Federal prison.
On the other hand, even in the golden age of watches (Berthoud, Harrison and Breguet), the best movements were found in the best cases with the best decorative arts applied - enamel, engraving and gem-setting were the norm. Now, the tradition of gem-setting dials, bezels and cases continues, albeit not necessarily with the best mechanical movements inside.
Skeletonisation of the movement is one branch of horological prowess that is making a comeback as is the extra flat movement. Imagine the skill required to make a skeletonised, extra flat movement and then to gem-set it while still retaining the 'ultra-thin' title? At SIHH 2013, we did not have to imagine anymore because Piaget dazzled us by combining Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie: the Piaget Altiplano automatic gem-set Skeleton watch was revealed.
The caliber 1200D, whose mainplate and functional parts are entirely set with gemstones, is a level of expertise exclusively mastered by the Manufacture Piaget, combined with another double ultra-thin record: 3 mm for the movement and 6.10 mm for the case. They will be copied....eventually.....everything Piaget does is followed by others; but for now, only Piaget does this.
Piaget Altiplano automatic gem-set Skeleton watch: exclusive expertise
With a history of mastery in skeleton-working, Piaget has developed and created the world’s thinnest skeleton models: caliber 600S and caliber 1200S, introduced in 2004 and 2012, respectively.
600S
1200S
Manufacture Piaget took things to the next level in 2005 by gem-setting for the first time not only the various decorative parts and additional plates of a skeleton movement, but also the entire gold mainplate and functional parts. Embodying this unique skill, caliber 600D presented in 2005 was followed in 2010 by caliber 838D.
600D
838D
At SIHH 2013, Piaget unveiled another stellar embodiment of the watchmaking art: caliber 1200D, the first ever automatic gem-set skeleton movement.
Successor to the already iconic and world-record ultra-thin automatic skeleton caliber 1200S, caliber 1200D is the 34th movement to be entirely developed and produced by the Manufacture in the last 15 years. It is an unprecedented feat blending watchmaking and jewelry expertise over a two-year development program that stretched the full range of Piaget’s skills. The Jeweller of Watchmakers produced a 3 mm movement representing the thinnest in the world in its category that is adorned with 259 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.8 ct) and 11 black sapphire cabochons (approx. 0.2 ct) set within a diameter of 31.9 mm. This exceptional gem-setting requires four days of work to complete just one movement.
Delicate craftsmanship mastered by only a few jewelry artisans
Setting the entire mainplate also requires paving the functional parts – a constant challenge mastered by only a rare few jewelers. An ultra-thin caliber naturally comprises extremely slender parts, such as the jumper-spring cover that measures just 0.69 mm. The Piaget master-jewelers even applied their artistry to concealing the screw threads beneath black sapphire cabochons. [See black cabochons below]
Reflecting the exceptional nature of its movement, the 18K white gold case of the Altiplano automatic gem-set Skeleton movement also called for the exercise of the most sophisticated skills perpetuated within the Manufacture. At just 6.10 mm thick, this case also sets a record for slimness, as well as being adorned with a setting of 40 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 3.2 ct) on the bezel. Delicately set on the middle, the crown, the lugs and even the sapphire crystal case back, 347 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1.4 ct) refine this precious composition, while the strap buckle sparkles with 24 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.06 ct).
The art of Haute Horlogerie decoration
Gem-set bridges that are hand-beveled and drawn out with file strokes; sunray-brushed wheels and black screws echoing the black-coated platinum micro-rotor: the decorations of Caliber 1200D are entirely in harmony with the finest traditions of Haute Horlogerie finishes cultivated by the Manufacture Piaget. This concern for detail is perfectly mastered in order to endow Caliber 1200D with the radiance it so richly deserves.
Piaget Altiplano automatic gem-set Skeleton watch – technical specifications
Movement Automatic Caliber 1200D, entirely developed, produced, decorated and assembled by Piaget
World’s thinnest automatic gem-set skeleton movement: 3 mm thick
Diameter: 31.9 mm (14’’’ ¼)
Set with 259 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.8 ct) and 11 black sapphire cabochons (approx. 0.2 ct)
Power reserve: approximately 44 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph / 3 Hz
Number of parts: 191
Number of jewels: 26
Finishes:
Gold mainplate and bridges gem-set on the upper part
Sunray satin-brushed bridges
Mainplate and bridges beveled and hand-drawn with file strokes
Circular satin-brushed and sunray-brushed wheels
Black screws
Dedicated index-assembly
Black-coated platinum micro-rotor engraved with the Piaget coat of arms
Case; World’s thinnest automatic gem-set skeleton watch: 6.10 mm thick
40 mm-diameter Altiplano case, 18K white gold
Bezel set with 40 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 3.2 ct)
Middle, crown, lugs and sapphire crystal case back set with 347 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1. 4 ct)
Strap: Black large-scale alligator leather strap with triple folding clasp in 18K white gold set with 24 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.06 ct)
Having seen the new Piaget Automatic Altiplano Gem-set Skeleton, I can attest to the subtle but substantial difference that a gem-set movement brings to the senses compared with a gem-set dial. There is a depth as the diamonds emphasise the ultra-thin movement and highlight the audacity of execution.
If the setter carves away just a few microns more metal, the diamonds would interfere with the function of the movement. Too little metal removed would mean a loose setting and the gems would sit proud of the mainplate: losing it's ultra-thin title.
This watch may be the first gents' diamond-set watch that garners my appreciation of both technique and aesthetique in gem-setting AND horology. With a lottery-win, that appreciation may become reality! 
Regards,
MTF
Piaget Altiplano Automatic Gem-Set Skeleton watch
Thanks a a lot Melvyn for this post. The watch deserves it.
I'm not a fan of jewelled watches but I can appreciate the technical skill
It is funny but I don't consider it as a jewelled watch...
