Kong[Moderator]
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Casemaking - BVLGARI Sotirio Series
May 17, 2009,11:58 AM
Let's start with double-polishing.
The question is " What is good about it ?" and " Is it very easy to produce it?"
Double-polishing is about creating different texture of the surfaces to create contrast and layering
effect in a monochromatic case. (In a Diagram#1, the glossy bezel and caseback
sandwiched the brushed caseband).
Perhaps case-making may be even more exciting employing Vacuum Diffusion Bonding
technique.
This polishing machine with spinning disc/wheel is used to polished the case and other metal parts too.
The area to be polished must not have any obstruction for the spinning wheel to contact the surface.
Referring to the diagram #1, the CLEAN joining area 'X', with caseband in brush-finish while the lug in
gloss finish, is impossible to create with the above conventional machine, without the spinning
disc damaging either the already well gloss-finished lugs or the brushed caseband.
A look at the CLEAN joining area...
How can this be achieved? Some companies may fabricate and polished the lugs separately
and then soldered onto the caseband. However, great care is needed to remove the excess solder
keloid at the joint and if not careful would scratch either of the joining surfaces.
How does BVLGARI do it?
A detailed exploded diagram of the case-construction for the Sotirio Series is helpful to explain
further.
Starting with the caseband, instead of the lugs, four cut-out slots were made.
The lugs were transferred onto the caseback. Both the case-band and caseback were then
joined together like a cross-lap joint and secured with screws.
Some pictures of the caseback ...
How is the caseback made?
The caseback is milled out from a piece of solid block of gold or steel. Below are a few pictures
of the CAD simulation of the cutter removing the metal ....
A rectangular block of metal cut to the shape above.
The lugs are shaped and the internal is cut...
After that the cutter removed materials near the lugs ....
3 lug-areas cleared ...
The rest of the 'wall' being trimmed ...
Last part to remove the material from the horizontal plane.
The finished component after polishing and plating.
Kong
Comments:
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Sotirio Bulgari 2009 Collection (with Live Pics)
By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:39
Sotirio Bulgari 2009 Collection To commemorate the 125th Anniversary of BVLGARI this year, four new models are introduced. A clear sign that an expedition to serious watchmaking is gaining speed with the amount of intentional efforts poured in and vertica...
BVL Sotirio 125th Anniversary Edition
By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:43
For press material for this model, please click here. Will begin with the special model which commemorates the 125th Anniversary , a tribute to the founder - Mr Sotirio Bulgari. This model consists of yellow gold, pink gold and white gold with silver dial...
Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel
By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:44
Please click here to access the press material The Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel is the premium piece of the Sotirio Bulgari Series. Only 30 pieces will be made. The size is also slightly bigger than the rest of the models. The ...
Sotirio Bulgari Quantième Annual Calender
By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:45
For the Press Release, please click here. The Sotirio Bulgari Quantième Annual Calender comes in 2 variations: 1) limited to 250 pieces with 18-ct pink gold case, black oxidized dial and black alligator strap (SBP42BGLAC). 2) limited to 125 pieces wi...
Sotirio Bulgari Date Rétrograde
By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:47
Please click here for the press material The Date Rétrograde is the simple well-crafted 3-hand 'unlimited' model of the Sotirio Bulgari Series with an interesting twist, a rétrograde date. This year Basel, there is another formidable company which has sim...
I wouldn't object to an outside movement
By: aaronm : May 20th, 2009-09:00
I think that would allow them to make it at a much more attractive pricepoint, but they need to choose a better looking outside movement. If they are pushing this as finely designed horology, the can't have such an ugly movement A
Casemaking - BVLGARI Sotirio Series
By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-11:58
Let's start with double-polishing. The question is " What is good about it ?" and " Is it very easy to produce it?" Double-polishing is about creating different texture of the surfaces to create contrast and layering effect in a monochromatic case. (In a ...
I am impressed by the quality of the case.
By: mokling : May 19th, 2009-01:40
Kong, if I invoke our common friend's saying, it is "champion of the champion". To me, the high quality of the case is the fusion of the quality of the case of A. Lange & Sohne and Peter Speake Marin. May be even better. Regards Ling
Initial impression, the case construction is ...
By: Kong : May 20th, 2009-07:04
questionable structurally. After knowing how it is being fabricated, BVLGARI has done the engineering. For now, we see quite a few double surface finishing. Typically brush-finished the top of the lugs and glossed the edge of the edge. Got a feeling soon,...
Wrist Shots with Various Models
By: Kong : May 17th, 2009-12:02
Sotirio Bulgari Date Rétrograde Start with a measurement of the subject's wrist 135mm , 135/25.4=5.3" A lady's wrist of 135mm or 5.3". Man! This is quite big, at 185mm or 7.28" . Diameter 42 mm (and 10.7mm thick) seating well on the lady's wrist... Looks ...
Not seem these beauties yet~
By: lien : May 18th, 2009-15:46
i doubt they have them these fast but ll take a look if i passing by this week this new sotirio looks very unique and more artistic/feminine, my favor being the pearl dial date retrograde in all metal & the anniversary Best, Ed~ This message has been edit...
The wrist size of the Lady ...
By: Kong : May 18th, 2009-21:28
Hi Ed Got the dimension of the nicer wrist It is at 155mm or 6.10 inches. Do you normally prefer light colour dial? Kong
Thx Kong for the measurement~
By: lien : May 19th, 2009-05:06
so cls...boy i have a women's wrist:p Maybe its summer! & in this particular design which is simple & refreshing, lighter dial lights up the whole piece as i m picturing an evening event mid summer's night Oh Kong, i have posted screen shot the white meta...
Ok,,,,I disclose, you are not the only one!
By: Kong : May 19th, 2009-22:42
Close wrist size/dimension to the Ladies. Just that mine is hairy ( being commented before). So now you know besides showing how the watches look on the ladies' wrists So you have watches group under Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter? Ok, will check your wh...
Thanks Kong for this very interesting report.
By: jlux : May 18th, 2009-23:44
These are finally Bulgari watches that I like at lot and I am glad that the Bulgari name on the bezel has disappeared.All models look great with the Retrograde Day being my favorite. The case finishing looks really interesting. The only negative point may...
Gerard, you are not the first person ...
By: Kong : May 19th, 2009-22:17
to have questions about the lugs. My initial thought after seeing the pictures (from press release), the watch seems 'long'. Will it be wearable for my small wrists... and from mechanical point of view, can it withstand stress over a period of time. You w...
What a fantastic interesting report Kong
By: Geo : May 17th, 2009-23:27
Thanks a lot for posting these pics and text. Great to see that, even while it took them 125 years, the company is finally able to produce really great watches. These models look absolute stunning and I am so pleased that Bvlgari finally got rid of their ...
Thanks Geo. See if you can try one on at your area...
By: Kong : May 18th, 2009-13:27
BVLGARI has gathered inputs from the market regarding the BVLGARI BVLGARI logo bezel. So you could be one of the voice they heard So far from the pictures, which model/s do you like? Kong
This 2009 collection is definitely worth a look
By: Emmanuel H : May 18th, 2009-00:31
My favorite is the Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel. I love the design of the dial : legible, modern and classical at the same time. Your pics show a superb movement, at least on the dial side. The finish seems to be excellent. I also appreciate the Quantiè...
Thanks Emmanuel for your observations...
By: Kong : May 18th, 2009-14:05
Agreed with you about the layout & presentation on the Perpetual Calender. Uncluttered and clear (legible). Perhaps size is secondary, the geometry or shape of the wrist is more important to suit this new lugs-design. It is best to try it on, even for tho...
Thank you for the link
By: Emmanuel H : May 19th, 2009-12:27
I much prefer the lugs design of the Diagono Series. It seems to be more "wearable". The French manufacture BRM proposes a solution : adjustable lugs ! So the watch would look great on both ladies. Of course it implies a mechanical / technical look incomp...
I'm impressed!
By: Davo : May 21st, 2009-18:35
The Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel in particular is simply stunning! Well done and thanks so much for sharing, Kong!
